Scramble up the lower gully for a few hundred feet...mostly steep snow with a WI3 step in the beginning. Beware of avalanche danger on the first sections. After that, belay on the right for a pitch up to a cramped belay cave (single file), clip 2 old pitons at the cave. The next pitch deals with a 70 degree ramp to a hanging curtain which can be dispatched in a number of ways.
About half of a mile down Avalanche Lake coming from the LOJ, between the two wooden walkways. An obvious snow /debris cone comes into view.
SCREWS, perhaps a nut.
Simon Thompson getting creative on P1 of AMG. Pho...
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Feb 18, 2013
rating: WI3-4 PG13
Climbed this on 2/17/13 in a party of 3. We soloed the first 200 feet or so of snow with a moderate(WI3 25') ice step. The curtain that forms the final crux cave was barely touching down and was extremely fragile in the single digit temps. The cave exit consisted of a thin traverse to a mixed exit up to a "thank god" sling(old and should be replaced) on a birch.
Gear: When it's thick, normal rack of screws is fine. In thin conditions, a selection of nuts, a couple mid-sized cams, and a specter can be useful for the middle of the pitch and the mixed finish.