Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Avalanche Mountain
Select Route:
Avalanche Mountain Gully 

Avalanche Mountain Gully 

WI4-

   
Type:  Chipped, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 175'
Consensus: WI3-4 [details]
FA: Not sure
Season: Winter
Page Views: 536
Submitted By: Ben Brotelho on Feb 18, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Simon Thompson leading P1 of AMG, Feb. 17, 2013. ...

Description 

Scramble up the lower gully for a few hundred feet...mostly steep snow with a WI3 step in the beginning. Beware of avalanche danger on the first sections. After that, belay on the right for a pitch up to a cramped belay cave (single file), clip 2 old pitons at the cave. The next pitch deals with a 70 degree ramp to a hanging curtain which can be dispatched in a number of ways.


Location 

About half of a mile down Avalanche Lake coming from the LOJ, between the two wooden walkways. An obvious snow /debris cone comes into view.


Protection 

SCREWS, perhaps a nut.



Photos of Avalanche Mountain Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Simon Thompson getting creative on P1 of AMG.  Photo by Kevin Chlad
Simon Thompson getting creative on P1 of AMG. Pho...
Comments on Avalanche Mountain Gully Add Comment
Show which comments
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Feb 18, 2013
rating: WI3-4 PG13

Climbed this on 2/17/13 in a party of 3. We soloed the first 200 feet or so of snow with a moderate(WI3 25') ice step. The curtain that forms the final crux cave was barely touching down and was extremely fragile in the single digit temps. The cave exit consisted of a thin traverse to a mixed exit up to a "thank god" sling(old and should be replaced) on a birch.

Gear: When it's thick, normal rack of screws is fine. In thin conditions, a selection of nuts, a couple mid-sized cams, and a specter can be useful for the middle of the pitch and the mixed finish.