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Avalanche Canyon

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Dem Bones Buttress 
Matternought Peak 
Mount Wister 
North Side Rock Climbs 

Avalanche Canyon  


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Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Jul 30, 2007
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North facing view of the North fork to Avalanche C...

Description 

Avalanche Canyon is the first canyon south of Garnet Canyon. Popular objectives in the area are Mt. Wister, the rock climbs of Matternaught Peak, and other non-summit routes. On the routes I've climbed in the area (and by all other accounts), the rock has been excellent. Most climbs are approached from points at or beyond Taminah Lake, so a bivy here is highly recommended. There are plenty of routes to occupy a weekend! But apparently the Park Service only issues one bivy permit for the area, though there were multiple parties each time I've been there.

Getting There 

Park at the Taggart Lake Parking Area. It's on the left, and is the first trailhead you come to after entering the park via the Moose station. Follow the main trail to Taggart Lake and wrap around the lake's north end. Keep your eyes peeled for a trail that takes off to the west as the main trail begins to travel northwest. As of late July '07, this trail was covered with sticks and rocks, making it appear that somebody doesn't want you up there. Disregard these confusing markers and take off on this trail. The trail travels through the bottom of the canyon, and is sometimes faint, log-covered, and bogged out. The destination is always obvious, however, as the canyon is not that wide. Look for helpful cairns in a number of areas. I don't know the mileage, but it takes about 3-3.5 hrs. to reach Lake Taminah.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.9 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Avalanche Canyon:
Taminah Arete   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   Matternought Peak : Taminah Arete
Lazy Bones   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700'   Dem Bones Buttress
Dem Bones   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700'   Dem Bones Buttress
Los Huesos   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   Dem Bones Buttress
Browse More Classics in Avalanche Canyon

Featured Route For Avalanche Canyon
Bryan on the 5th pitch.

Lazy Bones 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  WY : Grand Teton National Park : ... : Dem Bones Buttress
This route offers excellent stone similar to Dem Bones, but with less sustained hard climbing.P1-Climb the thin crack splitting this clean face making use of abundant faceholds. When the crack turns burly about 50' up, make a cruxy (and rather spicy) traverse left to a blunt arete which is delicately climbed to a small ledge (alternative belay possible here). Crank up some short cracks into a cool stembox/chimney with a perfect finger crack in the back. Use all 70m to reach a spacious belay ledg...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Avalanche Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
The Dem Bones Buttress
The Dem Bones Buttress
Greg navigating one of the many debris fields. "Avalanche Canyon" is not just a cute name.
BETA PHOTO: Greg navigating one of the many debris fields. "Av...
Shoshoko Falls on the way to Lake Taminah in Avalanche Canyon GTNP
Shoshoko Falls on the way to Lake Taminah in Avala...

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