Located up a quiet side canyon up the north fork road, this crag sports a variety routes. The location is remote for AF standards so it sees little traffic and you may find some loose holds (helmets recommended). Look to this area for shade in the late afternoon and sometimes a canyon breeze.
Click here for an oblique, aerial view of the wall.
- Drive up canyon 2.5 miles from TCM and turn LEFT at the North Fork road. - Park at a pullout on the right (east) side of the road exactly 1.2 miles up the left fork road located between Martin and Mile Rock picnic areas - Walk up the road 50 yards to a closed campsite on the left (west) side of the road. - Find the trail by walking through the closed campsite. The trail skirts the hillside on the right (north) side of the avalanche gully. - Hike 15 to 20 minutes to the first buttress you come to.
Left to right: 1. Contusion Dweller 5.11a (13 bolts to anchors. Located uphill from #2 & #3. A weird traversing line with a walk-off descent down a steep gully.) 2. Shortness 5.10b/c 3. Sweetness 5.10d 4. Unknown (5 bolts to chains, looks 5.12-ish, short and steep) 5. Air Blast 5.12b/c 6. Avalanche 5.11d 7. Unknown (11 bolts to sport anchors, looks 5.12-ish) 8. Return to Sender 5.12a/b
Slightly less strenuous but more technical than its neighbor to the right. Probably not worth the hike just to climb these two 5.10ís, but worth doing while at Avalanche Buttress. The crux is getting past the second bolt on less than stellar feet and crimps....[more]Browse More Classics in UT