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 ADVANCED
Long Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are the Pies Fresh? 
Autumn 
B3 
Back Door to Paris 
Big Country 
Bloodline 
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights 
Cruise Control 
Fear and Loathing in Nada 
Fire and Finess 
Game Boy 
Gift, The 
Gladuator 
Hot September 
Kazi and Mito 
Long Wall Chimney 
Mailbox 
NEPA This 
Next Day Air 
Now I'm Nothing 
Perforator 
Ralph & Bob's 
Rock Caddie 
Rock Wars 
Sacred Geometry 
Snatch, The 
Souders Crack 
Stand and Deliver 
Trinket Man 
Two Step 
Vector Trouble 
Whip It Out 
Yuk 
Unsorted Routes:

Autumn 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: M. Hackworth, T. Anderson, '84
Season: Any
Page Views: 6,639
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 3, 2006
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Luke nearing the top of Autumn

Description 

Climb up the tan and orange rock (perhaps the name comes from this?) in a corner formed by a very thick left-facing flake. The crux is somewhere around midway to the anchors and is hand-size dependent.
This route and it's neighbor, Rock Wars, are two of the nicest moderate Trad routes in the entire gorge. This climb was originally rated 5.8+ in the 1980's Martin Hackworth books, but was very strenuous and physical at the grade. Most climbers now refer to this as 5.9.


Location 

Walk right from the approach trail along the wall until you stand below a massive light-colored roof, a few hundred feet up. There is a large boulder under this, perhaps 15 meters back from the wall. A left-facing obtuse corner in orange/brown rock on the left has a hand-crack (Autumn) and a right-facing obtuse corner is on the right with a thinner crack and lighter rock (Rock Wars).


Protection 

Gear to 3.5" with doubles in the hand sizes if you like to sew it up.



Photos of Autumn Slideshow Add Photo
Susan Smith top roping Autumn
Susan Smith top roping Autumn
Cruising Autumn in August
Cruising Autumn in August
another shot of autumn
another shot of autumn
great route
great route
Autumn Route, epic climb! good pro.
Autumn Route, epic climb! good pro.
Comments on Autumn Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Mar 17, 2008

Taking two #3 camalots might be worth the effort for some!

By jhump
Jun 27, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

Do it like I did it. Only have a few trad leads to your name. Go to the Red in Mid-July. Hike up to Long Wall on a day when you are sure it will rain any minute- 100% humidity. Place all your hand sized gear early in the lead, run out of chalk. Dry the backs of your hands on your pants and gun it through the crux lucky to be alive. Lower as the rain dumps buckets, like it only can in Kentucky. Classic.

By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Jul 11, 2010

EXCELLENT CLIMB at this grade!!!

Make sure to wander to the right about 50ft and get Rock Wars 5.10a too!!!

By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 17, 2010

@jhump That sounds about as epic as it gets on a one-pitch climb! I can't wait to try it!

By Ryan Myers
From: Tempe, Arizona
Aug 17, 2010

great climb.. ran out of gear.. had to place a #7 BD Hex sideways to protect above the overhanging crack.

By Matt Glue
From: Dillon, CO
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

Great climb. I would consider pretty runout without doubles in #2 and/or #3

By Matt Baer
Apr 14, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

Great Climb! I only top roped it and the offwidth was tough, really fun though! One of the best climbs of my trip.