More on route start: if you e heading south down the river, it's about 20 feet before you get to dry land, at which point Lost Angel starts ramping up to the right.
Not bad route. P1 felt like balancy 10d or so for the first three bolts. P2 is is moderate 10. About 15 feet up, you reach a small ledge - on the right side is a NASTY DEATH BLOCK. Watch out! P3 is a sequency finish - don't be afraid to follow the crack in the corner to the left near the top, and then move back right for the final two bolts.
It's well known that Bob Horan established this aptly named three-pitch bolt line. The first moves are maybe 10b, and the cruxy topout is 10b/c (my opinion) though it's the one move that officially makes this route an 11. There is a 5.9 exit for the timid, but you'll still have to climb 10b to get to it. Named "Autumn" because every other time of the year you're gonna get your feet wet.
If you plan on rappelling in to this climb, find the anchors that are for Strange cargo, and look to the left (uphill) for the gully leading out over the face. I chose to have my buddy belay me to these anchors, as it is somewhat sketchy getting down to them unroped. three raps.
This is my favorite route in Upper Dream Canyon. I find it sustained, interesting, and fun climbing for all three pitches. The first pitch starts with hard (10c) moves past the first two bolts, then eases for a bit before climbing a steep headwall to the belay.Fun, varied face moves for the entire pitch. The second pitch continues up the steep wall, cranks a roof to the left, and works up to a belay at a small stance. More fun steep face moves on this pitch as well. The third pitch starts with some fun slab moves, then works up to a steep committing layback, and finishes with a steep and pumpy face with an insecure exit move to the right. Rappel the route, or walkoff to the left. The water level was very low on 8/23/02; no problem keeping your feet or the rope out of the creek at the start of the climb. Quality climbing for the entire route - three stars - a Dream Canyon classic not to be missed.
Fantastic route. The opening moves are a harsh warm up with good, but reachy holds. Really interesting and varied climbing. The final headwall on the last pitch is exciting and hard. I thought the crux was the top-out.
Anyone know what the new-ish route is to the right of Autumn? It's the bolted line between Divination and Autumn. The first two pitches seemed mid-tenish but the third was desperate. Very good route, though...
FA: update. Bob Horan and R. Rossiter, 1997. Vice Versa for Primal Cinama, which joins Autumn at the last pitch: R. Rossiter and Bob Horan, 1997. I list the name first of the person who worked out the line of the route and set up the fixed pro, then name the person who made the actual first ascent with them. Fun routes no?
A 70m rope gets you down from the top of P2. About 1 foot of tail of our rope dangled in the water. A 69m rope might be perfect, depending on rope stretch, actual length, etc.
If you pull the rope down to the right, it will mostly slide down the left angling right facing corner system, but some of it will likely fall in the creek.
By Kevin Neilson From: Boulder Oct 2, 2005 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-E4 6a
Third Pitch: I can't comment on the first two pitches because I somehow got to the third pitch of Autumn from Strange Cargo, via Primal Cinema, I believe. Judging from the chalk, I think a lot of climbers go left around the crux, and the crux itself didn't seem like a 5.11a. I think the book I had called that move 5.11b/c. When I was in the layback, for a while I could move none of my limbs lest I barndoor. The feet are tricky. Then after the layback there is a sketcy move until you can reach a hand-jam and pull up to clip. It was a great pitch though because it required a high degree of balance.
Anybody know what the "variation" goes at to the right of p3? You hit the anchors, and run it out up a right trending 20 ft dihedral to a nice 2 chain anchor. Then it's 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor - bolts look fairly new and are dark red in color.
You start by traversing left, clip first bolt. Then push into a corner, clip. Undercling the roof, clip again. Balancy move over the roof, then clip #4. Up to a nice rest stance, then #5. Hard mantle / undercling to a reachy right handhold with poor right feet. Clip at chest. Throw up and left to a side pull / flake. Clip once more. Surmount the little trench with the sloper at left, and one final clip to the finish.
First time I was on it felt like 12b, but this time with the beta, probably more like 11d....
The creek was flowing quite a bit last Sunday when we were on this route. Had to belay from a boulder. First pitch is pretty hard for short people.
Eric, it has been a while since I've been there, but I think that you are referring to a new route that was put up around spring 2007 (by who I'm not sure). The route starts about a third of the way up the FIRST pitch of Autumn. It is between Autumn and Hunky Monkey. It's most striking pitch goes up an arete that is just left of the top of the second pitch of Hunky Monkey (this pitch has a few too many closely spaced bolts, IMHO). When I climbed this route, it was still a bit dirty and may be better now. I didn't think that the entire route was any harder than mid-11, with the crux pitch being the one that you climbed (crux is not obvious). This route isn't the best at Dream Canyon, but if you've done all the other ones, it is certainly worth doing.