start of Autum Speaks and the Pulpit. roger hangin...
This is a great route. crux is probably the first pitch @overlap 80ft up. diverse climbing will keep u on your toe's. this climb combines all that stn. mtn. has to offer. exposed granite slabing w/sections of crack climbing.
this route starts on the pulpit 5.8. follow tree ledge to its end. start of dirty crack is here. aim for bolt 10ft right. move right and up shallow, steep groove for 2 bolts. travesre left in overlap (get gear) & shoot for anchors. follow bolt line up to next crack and anchors. more bolts to anchors. scramble to top.
light rack. take a few cams of different ranges small to fist. 6-8 draws some w/longer runners for traverse and rope drag. double bolted anchors all the way up.
This is an enjoyable route. It is called Botany 10 in "Dixie Crystals: A Climbers Guide to Stone Mountain" (published sometime in the early 1980s) and in the first Kelleys. There was a single bolt belay following the second pitch traverse. From there most parties trended left to the base of No Alternative. If you were feeling bold, two run-out variations headed straight up from the belay, toward the top of No Alternative corner or the upper reaches of The Pulpit respectively.
If I remember correctly, I think that Botany 10 was the variation first pitch linking the end of the 1st pitch of The Pulpit into (originally) the tree ledge - and then later on - into Autumn Speaks (after it was established). I'd heard that the name comes from the first words spoken from one of the ranger's daughters, but who knows? It seems as if the upper part of Autumn Speaks has been done a bunch of different ways, but there is some cool climbing up that minor corner and the slippery face above (bolts). There are so many variations at Stone that have different names, and it gets a bit confusing...