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Stone Mountain South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumn Speaks 
Banana Breath 
Between The Ways 
Block Route 
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home 
Captain Crunch 
Closer to the Heart 
Crystal Lizard 
Dirty Crack 
Dixie Crystals 
Electric Boobs 
Entrance Crack 
Face Value 
Fantastic 
Father Knows Best 
Fleet Feet 
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 
Grand Funk Railroad 
Great Arch, The 
Great Brown Way 
Great White Way 
Mcgrady's route 
Mercury's Lead 
No Alternative 
Pandora's Way 
Peer Pressure 
Pulpit, The 
Purple Daze 
Rainy Day Women 
Rice Krispies 
Scimitar 
Storm in a Teacup 
Strawberry Preserves 
Toilet Bowl 
U Slot 
White Way Direct 
Yardarm 
Unsorted Routes:

Autumn Speaks 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 550'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unsure
Season: fall to mid-summer
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: chris berry on Feb 20, 2011
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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start of Autum Speaks and the Pulpit. roger hangin...

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Description 

This is a great route. crux is probably the first pitch @overlap 80ft up. diverse climbing will keep u on your toe's. this climb combines all that stn. mtn. has to offer. exposed granite slabing w/sections of crack climbing.


Location 

this route starts on the pulpit 5.8. follow tree ledge to its end. start of dirty crack is here. aim for bolt 10ft right. move right and up shallow, steep groove for 2 bolts. travesre left in overlap (get gear) & shoot for anchors. follow bolt line up to next crack and anchors. more bolts to anchors. scramble to top.


Protection 

light rack. take a few cams of different ranges small to fist. 6-8 draws some w/longer runners for traverse and rope drag. double bolted anchors all the way up.



Photos of Autumn Speaks Slideshow Add Photo
view of the exposed climbing halfway up. white streak on the right is the Pulpit. for Autumn Speaks traverse left following (bolts) then up threw broken crack.
BETA PHOTO: view of the exposed climbing halfway up. white str...
Comments on Autumn Speaks Add Comment
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By Scott Phil
From: NC
May 5, 2012

This is an enjoyable route. It is called Botany 10 in "Dixie Crystals: A Climbers Guide to Stone Mountain" (published sometime in the early 1980s) and in the first Kelleys. There was a single bolt belay following the second pitch traverse. From there most parties trended left to the base of No Alternative. If you were feeling bold, two run-out variations headed straight up from the belay, toward the top of No Alternative corner or the upper reaches of The Pulpit respectively.

By nbrown
From: western NC
May 5, 2012

If I remember correctly, I think that Botany 10 was the variation first pitch linking the end of the 1st pitch of The Pulpit into (originally) the tree ledge - and then later on - into Autumn Speaks (after it was established). I'd heard that the name comes from the first words spoken from one of the ranger's daughters, but who knows? It seems as if the upper part of Autumn Speaks has been done a bunch of different ways, but there is some cool climbing up that minor corner and the slippery face above (bolts). There are so many variations at Stone that have different names, and it gets a bit confusing...

By Scott Phil
From: NC
May 7, 2012

Yeah, I've also heard that the ranger's daughter inspired "Autumn Speaks." I've never heard any explanation for "Botany Ten." And even Dixie Crystals lists the FA as unknown.