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 ADVANCED
Stone Mountain South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumn Speaks T,S 
Banana Breath T 
Between The Ways S 
Block Route T 
Blood On The Tracks T 
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 
Captain Crunch T 
Closer to the Heart T 
Crystal Lizard T 
Dirty Crack T 
Dixie Crystals T,S 
Dream Waves T 
Electric Boobs T 
Entrance Crack T 
Face Value T,S 
Fantastic T,S 
Father Knows Best T 
Fleet Feet T 
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 
Grand Funk Railroad T 
Great Arch, The T 
Great Brown Way T,S 
Great White Way T 
Mcgrady's route T 
Mercury's Lead T,S 
No Alternative T 
Pandora's Way T 
Peer Pressure T 
Pulpit, The T 
Purple Daze T,S 
Purring, The T 
Rainy Day Women T 
Rice Krispies T 
Scimitar S 
Sermon, The T 
Storm in a Teacup S 
Strawberry Preserves T,S 
Taken For Granite T 
Toilet Bowl T,S 
U Slot T 
Wahoo Start T 
White Way Direct T 
Yardarm T 
Unsorted Routes:

Autumn Speaks 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 550'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unsure
Season: fall to mid-summer
Page Views: 646
Submitted By: chris berry on Feb 20, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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start of Autum Speaks and the Pulpit. roger hangin...

Description 

This is a great route. crux is probably the first pitch @overlap 80ft up. diverse climbing will keep u on your toe's. this climb combines all that stn. mtn. has to offer. exposed granite slabing w/sections of crack climbing.

Location 

this route starts on the pulpit 5.8. follow tree ledge to its end. start of dirty crack is here. aim for bolt 10ft right. move right and up shallow, steep groove for 2 bolts. travesre left in overlap (get gear) & shoot for anchors. follow bolt line up to next crack and anchors. more bolts to anchors. scramble to top.

Protection 

light rack. take a few cams of different ranges small to fist. 6-8 draws some w/longer runners for traverse and rope drag. double bolted anchors all the way up.


Photos of Autumn Speaks Slideshow Add Photo
view of the exposed climbing halfway up. white str...
BETA PHOTO: view of the exposed climbing halfway up. white str...

Comments on Autumn Speaks Add Comment
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By Scott Phil
From: NC
May 5, 2012

This is an enjoyable route. It is called Botany 10 in "Dixie Crystals: A Climbers Guide to Stone Mountain" (published sometime in the early 1980s) and in the first Kelleys. There was a single bolt belay following the second pitch traverse. From there most parties trended left to the base of No Alternative. If you were feeling bold, two run-out variations headed straight up from the belay, toward the top of No Alternative corner or the upper reaches of The Pulpit respectively.
By nbrown
From: western NC
May 5, 2012

If I remember correctly, I think that Botany 10 was the variation first pitch linking the end of the 1st pitch of The Pulpit into (originally) the tree ledge - and then later on - into Autumn Speaks (after it was established). I'd heard that the name comes from the first words spoken from one of the ranger's daughters, but who knows? It seems as if the upper part of Autumn Speaks has been done a bunch of different ways, but there is some cool climbing up that minor corner and the slippery face above (bolts). There are so many variations at Stone that have different names, and it gets a bit confusing...
By Scott Phil
From: NC
May 7, 2012

Yeah, I've also heard that the ranger's daughter inspired "Autumn Speaks." I've never heard any explanation for "Botany Ten." And even Dixie Crystals lists the FA as unknown.