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 ADVANCED
Lots of Balls Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amazing Grace T 
Autumn Sauna T 
Beat Street Trauma T 
Left of Fauna T 
Patient Pace T 

Autumn Sauna 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Before 2008
Page Views: 392
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 19, 2007

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Route Description 

Start: Far right/east end of the slab, before the rock quality deteriorates.
Pitch 1: (200’) Climb the slab to a belay stance with 1.5” cracks.
Pitch 2: (200’) Climb a slab and patina-edged face to a 2-bolt station.
Pitch 3: (200’) Climb the crux slab and bulge to a 2-bolt/ring station.

Protection 

I recommend 8 cams (0.4”-3.5”), 8 nuts (0.3”-1”), 32 carabiners & 12 runners (24”).

Descent 

Rappel 200’ to a 2-bolt/chain station on Autumn Sauna.
Rappel 100’ to a 2-bolt/chain station on Left of Fauna.
Rappel 100’ to a 2-bolt/chain station on Left of Fauna.
Rappel 100’ to the ground.

History 

Arie Leeflang bolted this on lead in 2007. Arie was sweating bullets on an unusually warm November day while placing the crux bolts on lead.


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By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Nov 20, 2007

This is another genial line.

Pitch one- Follow either Beatstreet or Amazing Grace to reach the obvious ledge ~120 feet up. If you climb P1 of Grace you might need to traverse east to reach the belay ledge. Belay with mid sized gear.

Pitch two starts off the center of the ledge and climbs a short crack through the initial overlap and then ladders up some superior patina features past three widely spaced bolts (supplemented with TCUs and a mid size cam)(originally bolted roped solo/hand drill). You should be able to scope one bolt from the belay ledge; a second can be found near the Beatstreet dihedral; the third is about 50 feet higher and partially hidden. Once through the initial crack and slab the climbing mellows. Aim for a small “alcove-ish” area where the wall steepens and pinches above. Here find two bolts for belay. 190 feet 5.6.

Pitch three exits the 'alcove belay' directly and attempts the direct line up the slab- a little gritty, but still solid (small to mid size cams supplement boltage). From the belay climb a short gritty V-slot and traverse slightly left and up onto a beautiful slab. Slab you way directly up past several bolts (I may have left a pin on an earlier ascent) to the overlap guarding the upper, exit slab. Tackle the overlap and exit slab directly up the center with two bolts protecting. A quality pitch. Belay at bolts atop the slab. ~190 feet 5.8.

Descent. Either rap west (left) over to the Amazing Grace anchors and rappel with one rope (four or five raps) or walk off east.