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The Wasteland
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Automatic Leg Spreader 
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Automatic Leg Spreader 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dan Morta
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 295
Submitted By: D@n on Nov 11, 2013
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Automatic Leg Spreader. The route ends at the roof...

Description 

Easy (5.10) climbing leads to a no-hands rest below the roofed dihedral. Technical stemming and a hidden crimp get you past the first roof and into the crux. Micro-holds and more stemming maneuvers get you to the second roof. Gather your wits for some heads-up climbing and a couple of good holds on the arete with a jug sidepull allows you to clip and pull over the third roof and onto the upper headwall slab. More rests on the upper slab headwall allow you time to contemplate the final crux at the last bolt. Sidepulls, pinches, a sloper, and an optional kneebar will deposit you on the final section of vertical terrain that's pumpier than it looks.


Location 

It is on the trail halfway between the Wasteland and Nappy Dugout. This route climbs the obvious dihedral between the Wasteland and the Nappy Dugout.


Protection 

17 bolts. Chains and steel carabiners have been installed at the anchors. A 70 meter rope is required to lower off this route. The protection for this route was generously provided by the Rifle Climbers' Coalition



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By D@n
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 11, 2013

In case you were wondering, the route name came from two places: 1) the stemming nature of the route and 2) Nas singing 'Got Yourself A Gun' on Spotify while coming over Vail Pass en route to Rifle.

"Who am I? The back twister, lingerie ripper, automatic leg spreader, quicker brain getter, keepin' it gangsta wit' ya!"