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Autoclave 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: tr callaghan/strand lead strand/mallmen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 553
Submitted By: john strand on Mar 31, 2009
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Description 

The most demanding lead I have done. Even after top roping and a specific slab training program. VERY serious, but you won't die so no X. Really good rock and easily tr'd, which I strongly suggest. We toproped this a LOT before the "headpoint".


Location 

Start up Clean Sweep 5.9X. then past 3 bolts 5.10+. Now go up and slightly right to a very run-out crux pop to a decent "ledge" one more move to safety. You MAY get a tiny rp at the last move but...


Protection 

The first 3 bolts on Clean Sweep.



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