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 ADVANCED
Borson's Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Auto Pilot TR 
Big Rock Boys Mantle 
Black Pinch 
Borson's Leftside 
Borson's Lieback 
Borson's Mantel 
Ex, The 
Masterlock 
Problem A 
Problem B 
Problem C 

Auto Pilot 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  TR, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: some Stonemaster(s)
Page Views: 1,063
Submitted By: Tyler Logan on Mar 16, 2008

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As seen from the road, "Autopilot" ascends at cent...

Description 

The Auto Pilot boulder is located to the right of Borson's Wall about 20 feet above the road. "Auto Pilot" ascends through a steep bulge and into a shallow corner. It probably has some of the coolest moves of any Rubidoux problem, and is one of just a handful of the classics here that have nary a micro-crimp on them (unusual for Rubidoux). Although described as an .11b toprope in the Craig Fry guide, the rating is a sandbag. This could be looked at in modern-day crashpad terms as a highball V4. It is routinely bouldered by at least a few people. If you're under 6' tall, the crux move is probably much harder than V4. Be sure to have spotters prevent you from falling down to the road.


Protection 

toprope (2" cams) or crashpads, spotters and "cajones"



Photos of Auto Pilot Slideshow Add Photo
Eric Odenthal working on Auto Pilot. 1-24-10
Eric Odenthal working on Auto Pilot. 1-24-10
Comments on Auto Pilot Add Comment
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By Eric Odenthal
Jan 24, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R

spicy! bring a few pads and fresh skin. A stout layback starts this problem. go up with big moves. Under 6' would be burly. huge reach. the top out makes you pause. sick!