Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner, Scott Duemler
Page Views: 1,751 total · 10/month
Shared By: markguycan on Nov 18, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


3 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

P1: 5.10 TRAVERSE!!! about 100ft past gear placements and bolts to a nice ledge.
P2: 5.10+ CRACK!!! clip a bolt and head up steep finger and hand crack, passing another bolt then up to a ledge atop the column.
P3: 5.10,C1 STEEP!!! 4th class up slab to ledge then climb face on huecos, clip bolt, then thin fingers(aid)and edges past bulge to summit. (will probably go free at 5.12)

Location Suggest change

start from the notch between Cíbola Mitten and Sweetheart Spire. Approach from Jordan Road TH about 10min then up climbers trail/wash and slick rock toward the saddle north of Sweetheart Spire.

Protection Suggest change

doubles from tiny to #3 camalot & 1 #3.5 useful.
small nuts very useful.
Descent: rap twice North side to Kamikazi Corner w/ 60M rope- anchors are bonified!

Photos

loading