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Davidson Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Australians at the Forks T,S 
Bach's Celebration T 
Bladerunner T 
Brown Derby T 
Bushdoctor T 
Bushman T 
Equalizer, The T 
Flake, The T 
Jane Fonda Workout T 
Kingfolia T 
Loose Lips T 
Paradise Lost T 
Queenfolia T 
Retard's Recess T 
Three Turkeys T 
Torpedo T 
Trapeze T 
Watusi T 
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Australians at the Forks 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tim Toula
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 993
Submitted By: Dean Hoffman on Jan 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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This is one of the two bolted lines at the Forks. The other being American at Arapalies. While the question as to whether this should have remained a toprope will continue to be an issue it is a fun, if not short, route. Start as you would for Loose Lips, after the bouldery start make a blind stretch to clip the first bolt around the corner to your right. With the bolt clipped ease your way onto the face and balance slap and pimp your way through to the next bolt. With that clipped a little finese to a very cool throw and insecure mantel will get you to the top section of Loose lips.


I have heard that there is an unprotected direct start to this but I have never tried it and do not know anyone who has.


2 draws, same gear that you would use for the top section of Loose Lips.

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