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Aurora No Boreals 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: EFR, Mary Rudy
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,359
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Mar 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Geir on Gear on Aurora No Boreals.

"Bolts? What...

Description 

Two distinct well protected cruxes.


Location 

The right side of the Heliosphere. Climbs the seams up the middle of the cliff.


Protection 

Bolts



Photos of Aurora No Boreals Slideshow Add Photo
JSt pulling the first crux of Aurora No Boreals 5.11+
BETA PHOTO: JSt pulling the first crux of Aurora No Boreals 5....
Mark joins the bandwagon of those turning Aurora No Boreals into a gear route.
Mark joins the bandwagon of those turning Aurora N...
Adam sticking the not so obvious high gaston.
Adam sticking the not so obvious high gaston.
Comments on Aurora No Boreals Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 24, 2012
By Jimbo
Mar 9, 2006

One of the 3 best climbs at the Sun Spots.
A bit bagged at 5.11+. Many may feel 12a is appropriate.
Is my hair that grey or am I wearing a helmet.
Maybe I could climb harder if I colored my hair???

By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 10, 2006

Had you worn a helmet on a few occasions your hair might not be so grey.

By jbak
Mar 20, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

One of the best looking routes at the Sun Spot. Has an old-school lemmony feel but that's not all bad. You guys have definitely gone darkside though.

By Jimbo
Mar 21, 2006

Yes we have. Are those your big fat tick marks I saw on the second crux a couple of days ago? White tick marks can be as dark as a bolt next to a crack.
My offer still stands, lead this route on gear and I'll chop it.
Pretty fun climbing though....A

By jbak
Mar 22, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I'll probably never make it back to that route since it's off by itself and I already bagged it. If I do go back though, I will lead it on gear, perhaps using one of the bolts.

In any case, I like the route and I'm not advocating a chop. Peering around into the crack to place gear would interrupt the flow and it's a pretty elegant sequence.

By Jimbo
Mar 30, 2006

Whoa!! cowboy. Lets see it. Only one bolt. Is that with or without the tick marks???

By jbak
Mar 31, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I put no tick marks on that route...didn't need 'em.

By Jimbo
Apr 3, 2006

My apologies. Did you get the on sight??? It took me tooooo many runs to get this climb. I have no excuse.

By jbak
Apr 7, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Jim, I got to the first crux and thought I saw a smarter way to do it than the obvious fingers-in-the-slot method. As usual, my "smarter" turned out to be dumb. So I fell, then used the obvious slot and it worked ok. Then Cres came close to flashing it but broke a hold during the 2nd crux and went flying. An important hold it seemed to me. On my 2nd try I had to work out a new method for crux #2 on the fly and it worked but barely. So 2 tries.

By Jimbo
Apr 14, 2006

Cool beans. I climbed it after you and Cres were there. I did the 2nd crux the same way. So whatever hold broke off was not one I was using. Thank the Gods.

You guys try "The Ligher Side of Darkness" yet? It's a fun little pump fest.

By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jan 14, 2008

Got a good pelting at the belay for this one... wear a helmet!

Can be set up on Toprope if you traverse over from the top of Head in the McLeods. Easy traverse, but a pendulum would be nasty.

By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 17, 2009

This climb has really good, varied moves on it. Reminds me of Solar Power at Milagrosa.

Is the line to the left (with top rope anchors and some broken holds) going to be bolted any time soon?

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 17, 2009

Have at it Joe, we worked on it a bit. As I remember there was a little funk to the rock and then it just got too hard to keep me or Jimbo interested.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 1, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Congratulations to Geir for the certified FAG of this route today!

Nice work man!

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 2, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

LOL Christian!

Translation: "Free Ascent on Gear"

I learned this evening that Jimbo and Jesse sent this climb on gear just two weeks ago, so the congrats for the first trad ascents of this sport climb rightfully go to them. Well done guys! (Shit, I thought I was going to be famous!)

To everyone else who's interested in getting in some harder climbing on gear, this climb is offers some fun challenges. The gear is good save one hollow-sounding placement and a bit of a runout at the top (the fall is safe and protected by bomber gear).

Thanks to Christian and Eric for the catches while I figured this out today!

By JesseJ
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 2, 2010

are the bolts still on this climb? if so, how long are they likely to stay?

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 2, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

jesse-

no worries - the bolts are still there. :)

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 2, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Too bad, you got nothing but SAG then Geir :-)

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 3, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

LOL - I prefer the term "brazilian" to FAG or SAG ... but that's just me. :)

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 10, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Both "Eric R's" in town (EFR and Eric Ruljancich) - did trad ascents of this climb yesterday. Good job guys!

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 2, 2010

Just for the record you might want to look at who did the FA. I am pretty sure they want the bolts left in. It isn't like the gear at the bottom is 100 percent bomber. The rock where the second piece goes is funky and a fall could blow it out. So stop already. The route can be climbed with or without clipping the bolts. Not like it is some kind of trad test piece. Most if not all the folks who have lead it on gear had used the bolts on a previous ascent. If you want to do trad routes go find a line start at the bottom and climb it to the top like Geir did at Jailhouse.

By Jimbo
Apr 2, 2010

No really Eric, how do you feel. Don't hold back.

Upon further thought, the desire to chop the bolts seems kind of ego driven and silly.
Lead it on gear or clip the bolts. Your choice. Sport or trad folks can both have their way.

While there is not a bunch of hard safe trad on Lemmon, neither is there a bunch of fun 5.12 sport climbs down low, in the sun, that are great to go to in the winter.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 2, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

oops - sorry eric, thought you and jimbo put this route up!

to clarify, i wasn't really interested in removing the bolts so much as responding to the question that was posted.

good point jim - there aren't too many sunny, warm 5.12 sport lines low on the mountain.

:)

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 23, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Congrats Clay for also sending this on gear today!

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 24, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Congrats Clay!!!! Terrific!