Aurora Borealis 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Eric Tipton, Pat Brennan 6-99 |
| Submitted By: | Chris Owen on Aug 14, 2011 |
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Parker Fagrelius starting up.
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Description Singer is justified in calling this one of the best 5.9 crack climbs in the SBs. It is a wonderful climb in a wonderful setting - nice and athletic with great moves up fine grained granite.
Work your way up the off width inside the flake, flakes and holds on the right prove most useful. The crux comes next with a hand traverse onto to a ledge on the left (very nice). Now follow the crack up over a couple of overlaps to the business. A splitter crack snakes it way up the face, but features to the left and good rest spots make this section a blast.
Finish up to the ledge in a flaring pod, which can be negotiated using face holds on either side.
Sit and ponder the expansive view while bringing up your second.
Location Right facing lieback flake on the right side of the north face.
Protection Standard rack of Friends #1 to #4. With a #5 at the start. Two bolt anchor - rappel off, 60m rope sufficient.
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Parker in the business.
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Chris Owen on Aurora Borealis, photo by Manila Ang...
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Scott Nomi on the starting moves, ignoring the lur...
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Scott at the off width prior to the traverse, phot...
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Chris belays Scott up the splitter, photo by Manil...
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Aurora Borealis
Brian Cooper
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| Comments on Aurora Borealis |
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By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 9, 2011
rating: 5.9
| This is a great route with lots of variety throughout it's length. You can get away without the #5 at the start by going a little higher and gettting a blue Alien (or equivalent) at the top of the initial wide crack. Save a #4 Friend (or equivalent) for the wide flare at the top. |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Oct 10, 2011
| Good advice Chris - I used a #4 Friend in that flare. |
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