Aurora Blues 

FA Chris Henze

This route is really called Aurora Blues. I established the route and finished with lowering anchors at the point where the good climbing stopped. Chris climbed a crumbly, ledgy, and downright ugly additional 20 ft that I felt distracted from the quality of the climb. The otherwise flawless guidebook author felt that Chris' contribution of garbage to an otherwise nice little climb warranted a re-naming of my route. I disagree. I suggest you do Aurora Blues and forget the cake-walk after the arete.

Please refer the the route as Aurora Blues.

Brad, I did it your way (I think) and thought it was good. I can edit the name and put you (and whoever else) as FA if you think that's appropriate. I don't know whether I lifted the name from EFR's guide or from Chris back when I climbed with him.

Hey Pars, nice to see you are still alive. I haven't heard a thing about you in years. I had no idea you did the FA of the route. All I heard was that Chris had done it. The last little bit is sort of fun and it makes you think a little about blowing the redpoint or breaking an ankle. Maybe Chris renamed it for fhe the extension like Sharma and Realization. Aurora Blues with the OBB extension. Just kidding. Are you still bowhunting? That is all I do in the fall through January.

Thanks, guys. I thought it was clear what Chris had done. I appreciate your efforts.

So Brad...any other names to go on FA list ? Date ?

Hey, I thought you took my ribbing on the Lessons page pretty well !

There is nothing anyone can say that I don't deserve. It's all good laughs, in the end.

Sorry, I can't remember who belayed me (I was notorious for corrupting young climbers and imposing belay-slave duties on them). If I remember rightly, Jason Mullins and Moema Clark were with me the day I pointed the route.

No idea on the date. Last century, though. Man, it's scary to be able to say that ... and even scarier to feel it! You understand :)

Here's one for you Brad... not only was I climbing in the last century... I was BORN in the FIRST HALF of the last century ! (by 2 months)

The start is a little funky, awkward, with so so rock. After the first 15 feet or so things definitely improve with fun, thin and technical climbing. Definitely worth doing.

I agree with Brad on the top however. Once you finish the arete, you can sit down and get a full recovery on the ledge before you have the fire a somewhat tricky finish. The finish isn't too bad, but falling would probably suck, and the ledge rest really messes up the flow. I of course used the rest liberally on my attempt, well because not using it would be silly.

As of 12/03/10 the first bolt has no hanger.

CONGRATULATIONS to "Canada" Eric Ruljancich for nailing his first 5.12 onsight on this climb on December 3rd. A real inspiration to watch. Nice work Eric!!!!

The hanger has been restored thanks to Jimbo.