A nice little route on the W-face of The Box. Find this just R of Hand Crack, 5.9 and just L of Fact of a Door Frame, 5.11. This route is on a pretty, W-facing wall with brilliant green lichens has 3 of the 5 routes of the W-face. Certainly a bit of a hump for an approach, perhaps 45 minutes, but decent variety in the area can make it worth it. This vertical, R-angling route is identified by 2 bolts and then follows a brief R-angling crack and heads towards a 2-bolt anchor. 10d is probably right for folks 5'10" and taller. Perhaps harder for the vertically challenged. 1.5 stars, by consensus of 2.
Either scramble up to the ledge from the L or climb a short 5.7 bit to the ledge from the R. You can clip the 1st bolt from the ledge. Step up and R, move your hands up, and then move your feet up to a good edge. Reach L to a very good L sidepull and clip. Just above, find the first crux making the long reach R to the down-pointing flake. Walk your feet up to jam the brief crack. This crack is brief but varies from #0.75 to 1 to 2 to finger size. From the top of this crack, make a long reach up & R to a good face hold. It can be challenging reaching down to the toe rail as you move R toward the anchor. Perhaps 40 feet.
Rap the route from the 2-bolt anchor which is shared with Fact of a Door Frame. The R bolt could use a link or something better than the thin, split ring and hollow aluminum, rap ring. The L bolt also uses a thin split ring.
2 QD, #0.5-2 Camalots plus something for the anchors.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 29, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Currently, the anchors up top of this one are pretty bad. The bolts are OK, I guess, but the "links" are substandard and should be replaced. If anyone beats me to it (likely) please take something up there to do the work. It's a 1/8" smash link to a chewed up aluminum ring on one bolt, and that was the good one....
|By Fred Knapp|
Sep 28, 2007
Yeah, this might not be the best route. I drilled this on the lead to get to where we could bolt its neighbor. It was mostly the beautiful lichen that attracted us to this wall.