Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 125 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Steve Allen & partner, 1970s |
| Submitted By: | Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 5, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry climbs the crystalline...
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Description This super-fun slab line mixes it up between Flatirons-esque friction and classic granite edging to offer a leader of any level a very enjoyable pitch of climbing.
Begin on the flake just right of Two Minds Meet by reaching up and grabbing some huge, delightfully tacky crystals in a shallow groove. Climb the groove until it runs out, and transition to a section of friction moves for a few bolts before reaching a horizontal break, after which the angle, and difficulty, progressively eases.
This line originally went at 5.7 X, but was retrobolted sometime fairly recently (hangers and bolts are free of corrosion or rust). While this climb is now an excellent beginner sport lead, it is, unfortunately, also very out of character for the area, with a bolt every ~6 feet, even through 5.5/5.6 terrain.
Location Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry ascends the moderate face between Two Minds Meet and Between Nothingness and Eternity on the lower tier of the South Slabs.
Protection You need more than a 70m rope!
Per Mojo Stylee: as of Feb. 19, 2011, all of the bolts but one, including the anchors, have been removed from this route.
| Comments on Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry |
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By Tanner Mitchell
From: Fort Collins CO
Mar 6, 2010
| The new Poudre guide recommends a 70m rope to rap or TR from the chains, but today I witnessed that 70 meters leaves you 7-10 feet off the deck. No fall/injuries thanks to an attentive belayer, but I thought it was quite easy to belay the second up and walk off the ramp. |
By ErikJohnson
From: Fort Colllins
Mar 9, 2010
| You can rap from the chains with a 70m. It takes you to the top of a flake to the right of the route, where you can easily down climb, but yes you need to be careful not to fly off the end of your rope. I agree with Tanner though, it is just as easy to walk off. |
By Rodney Ley
Jul 10, 2010
| I noted today that a party with a brand new Edelweiss rope labeled 70m on the tip was in fact one meter shy of reaching the ground. They did fine with rope stretch on their rap.
My Sterling 9.8 rope (labeled 70m) just barely touched the ground. So I agree, with care, a 70m rope should do fine. |
By Mojo Stylee
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Feb 22, 2011
| As of Feb. 19, 2011, all of the bolts but one, including the anchors, have been removed from this route. |
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