There are several crags in this valley which all are accessed via the same parking lot. All of the crags can be reached within a ten minute walk. There are lots and lots of routes here, so there's something for everyone, from beginner climbs to a hardman climbs. I find the rock to also be some of the nicest I've yet climbed on in the Frankenjura because it's solid and sticky. The walls are also mostly south-facing, so in early Spring and late Fall you can get some nice sunshine, often through the leafless trees, and in summer you're shaded by said trees.
Drive to Doos (a very small "village" - I think three houses) and park in the large hiker's parking lot next to the street. The GPS coordinates indicate this parking lot.
A really nice route with nice rests. Starts on right side of the pillar and works its way up to climbing on the arete. The crux is down low, and the rest of the route is pleasant....[more]Browse More Classics in International