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 ADVANCED
White Owl Face and Laughing Owl Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aquarium T 
Attack of the White Owl S 
Bubbles T 
Crack of the Future T 
Crack that Never Was, The TR 
Egg Cracker, The T 
Little Wing T 
Owl Cliff Club, The S 
Pocket Change S 
White Owl T 
Wide Owl T 
Wingless T 

Attack of the White Owl 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Ward Smith
Page Views: 611
Submitted By: M Sprague on Oct 15, 2010

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Description 

Impressive, very thin face climbing up the middle of the shear White Owl Face. It is the bolted line just right of The Owl Cliff Club. From the ground it looks like there are no holds. Though it is a bit painful, being so thin, it is a very good route. It requires stamina, good beta and clear eyes so you can see the microscopic foot holds. A bit of a reach wouldn't hurt either, though a 5 foot tall climber has done all the moves, so no excuses.

Ward graded this 13b when he did it, but it has not had a successful 2nd ascent yet, even TR, so that grade may be a bit sandbag. It felt as hard or harder than Dark Star at Rumney to me, with smaller holds though it is not quite as steep.

Wear your best edging shoes.

Location 

Straight up the middle of the White Owl Face, to the right of the flake of Owl Cliff Club

Protection 

sport, bolts to an anchor shared with Owl Cliff Club. Stick clip the high first bolt or use a couple of cams in the horizontal.


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By ward smith
Apr 6, 2011

I didn't stick-clip, but used a couple of cams in the horizontal before the first bolt.