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Rodeo Wave
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Atomic Cow 
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Ground From Upside Down, The 
Ranch, The 

Atomic Stetson 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Paul Piana
Page Views: 2,028
Submitted By: m.wendling on Jan 16, 2008
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Working out the crux of Atomic Stetson on the Rode...

Description 

Bouldery through the lower half then 5.12 for the last bolt or two.


Location 

R. of Cow Reggae


Protection 

bolts



Photos of Atomic Stetson Slideshow Add Photo
The crux lunge.
The crux lunge.
BJ climbing the testpiece linkup "Genetic Drifter".  Here he is just above the Atomic Stetson crux.
BJ climbing the testpiece linkup "Genetic Drifter"...
Finishing up the technical headwall.
Finishing up the technical headwall.
Comments on Atomic Stetson Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Aug 18, 2009

Saying a Wild Iris route is bouldery is like saying the same thing twice, like being redundant.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 27, 2009

That's funny Mike. It's comical.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Aug 27, 2009

Not unlike the ADAA- American Dodgeball Association of America

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 27, 2009

If you can dodge a wrench, you can dodge a ball.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 28, 2009

This is a really excellent route, despite its diminutive stature, that I think is noticeably better than Cow Reggae, though most guidebook authors seem to disagree. This is pretty long & sustained at the grade for a Wild Iris route. Most of the 5.13s up here have less than four hard moves. While the crux itself is probably only ~5 really hard moves, there are plenty of desparate opportunities above to blow the redpoint. There is one move in particular, right at the lip, that would make most non-locals doubt the 12c grade of Babalouie.

Despite the comfortizing, this guy will make you bleed, so plenty of tape is advised.