|West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
Add Photo Add Comment Printer View
This is a fun, technical pitch in great position! It begins on the ledge directly above the anchors of The Unsaid.
Start by climbing 15' of chossy rock with poor pro (5.8 R) until you can clip the first bolt. A medium-sized cam can protect the easier moves to the second bolt. Transition onto the face and make crux moves, featuring technical climbing on positive sidepulls with poor feet. From the final bolt, step left to the arete and pull exciting 5.11 moves to the obvious anchor.
Note: Several of the key holds on this climb are fragile. It may be best not to try it if there are parties on the popular routes below.
4 draws, a cam (I used both a #1 and a #0.5).