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 ADVANCED
West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock TR 
Atom Smasher S 
Break on Through T 
Break On Through to Chianti T 
Chianti T 
Clear-a-Sill T 
Cruisin' for Burgers T 
Ein Kluck T,TR 
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 
Gibbet, The T 
Incarnation S 
Long John Wall T 
Next to Nearly T 
Rictus T 
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 
Shock Of the New T,TR 
Strawberry Shortcut T 
Sunshine Wall T,TR 
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 
Unlead, The T,TR 
Unsaid, The T 
Uranus T 
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 
Washington Irving T 
White Rabbit T 

Atom Smasher 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Erik Johnson & Shawn Ennis, 1987
Fixed Hardware: 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 170
Submitted By: Aaron Ramras on Apr 15, 2013

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fun, technical pitch in great position! It begins on the ledge directly above the anchors of The Unsaid.

Start by climbing 15' of chossy rock with poor pro (5.8 R) until you can clip the first bolt. A medium-sized cam can protect the easier moves to the second bolt. Transition onto the face and make crux moves, featuring technical climbing on positive sidepulls with poor feet. From the final bolt, step left to the arete and pull exciting 5.11 moves to the obvious anchor.

Note: Several of the key holds on this climb are fragile. It may be best not to try it if there are parties on the popular routes below.

Protection 

4 draws, a cam (I used both a #1 and a #0.5).


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