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Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gully
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Atlantis T 
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Lost Cities T 
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Atlantis 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 16 pitches, 1600', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Kent Wheeler, Jim Howe, Jay Shotwell, 2006
Season: Fall and Spring
Page Views: 9,384
Submitted By: Evan Stevens on Oct 5, 2007

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Pitch 4 of Atlantis.

2014 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Atlantis seems to be the talk of the town in the Black these days, for good reason. Moderate grade, with well protected cruxes, great belay ledges, long route, not too much scary, loose and runout climbing. That being said it is the black, game on, be prepared for some loose, scary and run out climbing, just not at the hardest grades on the route. Also be prepared for a long day with lots of pitches. The topo is plenty adequate, but I will provide some descriptions-pitch lengths are on the topo. My partner and I did a lot of 'sub par' alpine style belays-one or two pieces, belaying off your harness-you are not always building a huge anchor and belaying off of it.

P1: 5.9 Climb an easy crack up the right side of a pillar in a right-facing corner to its top. Look for the shitty, fixed, baby angle (loose) which is more a trail marker. Good gear near by, and face climb (a little run) up and right over the bulge to a good belay ledge

P2: 5.9 Climb the beautiful flake up to a right-facing corner, to a massive ledge-belay on the top left side of the corner for a better start to the next pitch.

P3: 5.11 Follow topo, fun pitch, crux at bolt. One bolt belay.

P4: 5.10+ Up a right-facing feature right off the belay to under a roof, belay at right edge of the roof.

P5: 5.10- Fun pitch, annoying belay in the chimney with some flaky rock.

P6: 5.7 This would be the easiest pitch to get lost on, I did. Continue up the chimney and ramp til its end. Traverse right, then go up a right-facing feature for about 5 meters. At this point, you are probably 25-30m out from the belay. You will look up to some broken features in the 'black grotto' and even some fixed tat hanging off the roof-this is NOT the way. Look right and down and you will see a massive, hanging, left-facing corner and roof-step over the corner to get on the ramp that would be the top of this feature. Belay at the right side of this ramp.

P7: 5.10 Great pitch, good rock. Lots of up and down climbing on the start on good face holds. A fixed pin you climb up to will blaze the way a little bit as you work your way to some right-facing features. Keep climbing out of sight of your belayer till you get to a good ledge belay with 2 fixed pins.

P8: 5.11- Crux off the belay protected by a bolt. Pull through some steep overlaps, and then climb easily to another massive ledge.

P9: 5.9 Follow topo, belay on block-tight little belay for 2 people-finger-size pieces and nuts for belay.

P10: 5.11- Another fun pitch off by yourself as you can't see your belayer. Belay on a small ledge at the top of the groove-corner feature. I think there was a fixed pin.

P11: 5.8 (R?) The pitches get short for a bit here. Peg pitch with a bolt-wow that's nice. Easy climbing, on good rock, I don't know if it's really R, but don't fall. Get on to another massive ramp and go up and left on 4th class til you see the next pitch with its bolt.

P12: 5.10 Short crux protected by the bolt, don't blow it after that, another small ledge belay.

P13: 5.10 Short crux after some peg wandering-its a little loose in the peg, but the hard climbing is on good rock, with a fixed pin-follow the topo, go up off the belay, then do a straight left traverse into the spot marked 'awkward'.

The belay is on the huge ledge feature with a tower-you could theoretically unrope here and bushwhack off the route, as per the Lost City escape, but its easier to climb to the top. Either way, take the rope off walk up to the prow of the headwall about 200' away.

P14: 5.11 Climb some groove and face features unprotected and easy for the first 20' to the obvious, right-facing corner til you get to the bolt. Clip it, climb the crux, and use face holds to climb the sides of the OW, because who wants to climb an OW anyway? Belay on the pedestal.

P15: 5.10 Short crux off the belay, to easy crack climbing to large, broken ledge with boulders.

P16: 5.10 Climb through a few awkward roofs until you get to the narrows overlook. Crack a beer open, and belay your partner up.

Location 

Prisoner of your Hairdo Gully as for Lost Cities. Park at the narrows overlook, walk back down the road toward the ranger station about 5-10 minutes, until you see a small rock stood up like a tombstone on the side of the road. Bushwhack perpendicular off the road until you get to the gully edge and scramble down the first gully you encounter. This gully flash flooded probably last fall, and has lots of fresh debris and broken trees in it. We did one short rap off a chock stone-you could down climb around it. Go all the way to the river passing the start of Lost Cities, and then trek up river for just a few minutes until you see the starting pitch-there is a cairn under the grass where the root starts. Solo up the easy, fifth class to the base of the route.

Protection 

Double set to #3 Camalot, one new #4 Camalot. Lots of long runners. We brought 10 runner, 2 draws, one 3 and one 4. Lots of belays use hand-size pieces, as per topo.


Photos of Atlantis Slideshow Add Photo
Coming up to the belay on the fifth pitch of Atlantis.
Coming up to the belay on the fifth pitch of Atlan...
Seventh pitch of Atlantis.
Seventh pitch of Atlantis.
Pitch 4 of Atlantis.
Pitch 4 of Atlantis.
The third pitch of Atlantis.
The third pitch of Atlantis.
Looking up at the start and first pitch of Atlantis.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the start and first pitch of Atlanti...
Pitch 3, the first crux pitch.
Pitch 3, the first crux pitch.
Jeff following pitch 3. He is just past the crux.
Jeff following pitch 3. He is just past the crux.
Looking back at pitch 6 on Atlantis.
Looking back at pitch 6 on Atlantis.
Pitch four before the crux.
Pitch four before the crux.
Pitch 10 of Atlantis.
Pitch 10 of Atlantis.
Pitch 1 of Atlantis. Notice the "pillar" referenced in the topo. You have to climb some easy 5th class to get here.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 of Atlantis. Notice the "pillar"...
Topo for the route-it was in my pocket all day, so some folds but you can get a copy at the ranger station
BETA PHOTO: Topo for the route-it was in my pocket all day, so...
Looking back at pitch 6 on Atlantis.
Looking back at pitch 6 on Atlantis.
Looking up at the final three pitches of Atlantis.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the final three pitches of Atlantis.
Pitch 7 of Atlantis.
Pitch 7 of Atlantis.
Climbing the 14th pitch of Atlantis.
Climbing the 14th pitch of Atlantis.
Jay Shotwell keeping his balance on pitch 3.
Jay Shotwell keeping his balance on pitch 3.

Comments on Atlantis Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 18, 2014
By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Jun 12, 2008

A fav right now...done it 3 times! "No Country" is also as good. If you want to top out by climbing, climb the last 3 of "Lost Cities" instead.
By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Aug 30, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Excellent outing.
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
May 17, 2009

I thought this route was better than the Scenic Cruise. A bit harder, and more of a face route. A few comments.

The approach gully is the pits. The start of the route is reasonably obvious--plus, some kind soul put a 20 ft branch up pointing the way. We walked along the river. To be assure of finding it: After reaching the river, walk along the base of the cliff until you find the cairn and the features. The climb starts on the left side of some big slabs. The cliff steepens more up river.

This climb meanders a bit to find the best climbing. There is a fair bit of traversing. I thought the start of pitch 7 was 5.9 R for the second--lower outs anyone? Pitch three is exciting for the leader. Pitch 4 was wet after 3 days of dry weather.

The last three pitches, particularly pitch 14, are superb.

If you meet Kent and Jim, buy them a beer.
By Patrick Peddy
From: evergreen,co
May 17, 2009

AKA "HOTLANTIS" I agree with Steve, this is a very fine climb. A huge thanks goes to Jim, Kent, and Jay for ferrating out this exceptional passage. We caught up with Jim and Kent during our stay and, while listening to their stories, it became clear the amount of work they put into Atlantis. I highly recommend this one.

A few helpful hints: 1) bring Alien offsets. While not entirely necessary, we used them on most pitches. They were key on many pitches. 2) This is not a crack climb. 3) Don't miss the last three pitches. 4) This climb gets a lot of sun, so plan accordingly.
By erik wellborn
From: manitou springs
May 20, 2010

Quality Route.
By blakeherrington
Jun 3, 2010

A fun experience, but the climbing was consistently of a bit lower-quality than I'd expected. Harder, but not quite in the same league as the Scenic Cruise. The 5.10 climbing above the lone bolt on P12 has one in ledge-fall territory. The final 5.11 pitch (#14) seems pretty contrived. Maybe I was just dehydrated and tired, but it's easy to clip the bolt, then veer back right and up the easier climbing to the intended pillar feature, bypassing any 5.11 section on the pitch.
By superjosh
May 12, 2011

This is an excellent, albeit wandering, route on very good rock. Many of the pitches described above can be linked or extended to cut down the number of belays. The escape gully is relatively unpleasant. Having finished both ways, I would recommend climbing to the top up the last three quality pitches.
By notmyname
From: Stony Brook, NY
May 11, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

Thanks so much for what I can only imagine to be an extreme amount of work and sweat putting this route up! The first adjective I would use on this climb would be, "outstanding". After the emphasis on that word, the other descriptions I would use are: committing, engaging (aka better not be distracted), exciting, traversy, frightening, exposed, long, hot, exhausting, and awesome. As stated most cruxes are protected,; however, it is not a route you can pull-through or hang on. You had better be willing to run it out, trust some marginal gear, and commit.

I didn't climb the last 3 pitches (heat and foot pain are wonderful de-motivators), and I certainly went the wrong way a few times making the climb a bit more "exciting". The best beta I can give is you must commit to making the moves above your gear and do not hesitate during or after the cruxes. Keep climbing and you will be rewarded with gear. I felt the key pieces for me were the green Alien (blue Mastercam) and red Alien (orange Mastercam/purple Camalot), but that was just my perception.

Important beta: on pitch 13, the description didn't get me on the right path. There is wrong way chalk on more than a few pitches. On pitch 13, you will see a bush up and to the right. Climb up to it (either go up and traverse on good holds, some gear, or maybe cut straight right and then up), and a crack system leads to a dihedral up and to the right, mostly out of sight from the belay. The topo and description weren't clear to me and my awesome partner. Anything up or to the left of the belay will result in a crackless, gearless nightmare, and the fixed gear is bail gear. I climbed up 30' to a fixed piece w/no gear only to find it was a nut laying on top of a rock with a biner couterweighting it to keep it balanced in position. Also on pitch 9, climb to the top of the chimney, not on the exit looking ramp. That is a bad way.
By Haj
From: Santa Fe, NM
May 23, 2012

Wondering if June 24th is too late in the season for this climb?
By jborof
Sep 18, 2014

Just a really good climb. Technical face climbing as opposed to some of the more slug fest Black routes out there. Bolts are placed extremely well. Seems like the guys who put this one up did their homework and it shows. Highly recommended.