Varied and challenging climbing consistent at 5.9 with only a couple exceptions. Awesome exposure with a very exciting finish up the 5.10 crack. This is a must climb at the grade. Heading out the roof on the last pitch is so cool and exposed. You get a real bigwall feel for a relatively short route. Do the 5.10b finish. It's not stiff for the grade and protects well with finger-sized gear.
Pitch 1: (5.9) Head up the arching crack, feet on the slab. Interesting climbing with a powerful layback crux on smooth feet (red cam). Follow the crack to its end, and belay in a little hollow by a small tree.
Pitch 2: (5.5) Climb the wicked awkward, corner chimney to the large ledge. Fun and interesting, just weird. Belay on the ledge.
Pitch 3: (5.9) A very cool pitch. It would be a cool route even on its own, it brings to mind the Barber Wall. Walk 20 ft left on the ledge to a flake with good finger locks. Climb the flake with interesting footwork and intermittent good locks. When the flake ends, do a series of insecure, mantel moves to a nice belay ledge. Fixed anchor that may need to be backed up.
Pitch 4: (5.10b or 5.9) Climb up the chimney, crack corner (this is a very cool spot with strange rock on the left side). When you get to the roof, bang a right (5.9 crux). Follow the crack out right below the roof, not too bad once you get in to it, but it can be pumpy, so get through it quickly if you can in good style. You can continue right and rap from a tree and the route goes at 5.9, but the preferred finish follows the finger crack at the right end of the roof straight up laying back the finger crack. Just a few hard, footy moves get you to good holds and one final mantel move to the summit. I belayed from a horizontal then did a short easy pitch to the trees but you could go straight to the trees. Beware of rope drag (use all long runners on this pitch).
Seepage can be an issue so climb it on a dry day if you don't want an epic.
Hike the trail to the South Buttress and scramble up on to the big ledge below the obvious arching crack.
A standard rack to #3 cam. Conserve the hand-sized pieces on the longer pitches.
My dad cleans the first piece in the super exposed...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the arching first pitch a long, layback...
Looking down at a sea of granite and the 5.5 corne...
Looking down from the exposed roof traverse.... Ch...
The pitch 3 layback flake.... This is fun climbing...
The line of Atlantis on the south buttress....
|By S. Neoh|
Jul 8, 2010
Yeah, nice route. I still remember it even after almost 15 years; must have been good :). The third pitch is beautiful. Glad my partner at that time (Ajax G) had the last and crux pitch with the airy 5.10 finish.
|By Peter Lewis|
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 25, 2012
This is one of the best climbs on the South Buttress. Start up Hotter Than Hell (.9) or Cold Day In Hell (.10) for a nicer link-up than the original first pitch. The final pitch up the big corner and out the yawning maw provides one of the most spectacular positions on the cliff. The rack should stress smaller stuff (nuts and cams from .25" to 2") although a gold and blue Camelot will probably find a home on the last pitch. This would be on most people's list if asked, "If you could only do three routes on Whitehorse...?"
|By Matt Desenberg|
From: North Berwick, ME
Oct 26, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
This has a more adventurous feel than it's neighbors. The initial undercling pitch was cool, as was the third pitch .9 flake, but the chimney-swimming in between and up to the roof traverse detracted from the climbing. There also seemed to be a fair amount of potential for rockfall, especially on the last pitch; tread lightly!