Atlantis climbs the steep and singular feature just right of Thin Ice.
P1: Begin by climbing the overhanging right-facing flake just right of Thin Ice. Strenuous but straight-forward. 5.10c.
P2: Climb up flakes to briefly join Thin Ice, but then traverse right on more flakes to a bolted belay. 5.10.
P3: Step right to the tips crack, get a couple pieces in as high as possible (purple TCU, wires), take a deep breath and punch it on really powerful tips liebacks to an obvious incut slot. Shake, place more pro, and continue up on slightly easier terrain (including a beautiful hand crack). Belay on a ledge. 5.11c.
P4: Climb out left from the belay through a small, tricky bulge/roof, then continue up the corner system to the summit. 5.11a. It is also possible (and recommended!) to do the spectacular Lost at Sea flake which departs from the right end of the belay ledge (but unless you climb 5.12+ slab you'll have to rap back down and climb the standard P4 to top out anyway).
Descend to the north; see the description for the Sorcerer for more details.
Single set of cams from tiny to #2 Camalot. Wires.
Nov 14, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13
I recommend doing the Lost at Sea finish. After arriving at the Lost At Sea anchor one can rappel down and left to arrive back at the belay, then finish on the last pitch of Atlantis.
A good link-up is Thin Ice to Atlantis to Lost at Sea to Atlantis.
|By Brad G|
From: Yosemite and else where
Jun 8, 2008
This is a glorious climb! A must if you’re a 5.11 trad climber living in California, or anywhere for that matter. *****
Sep 8, 2009
Ridiculously fun climb, with short, but heady cruxes. A lot of fun.
From: Mojave, CA
Jul 16, 2012
This climb is extraordinary! The rock quality, position, and climbing are all amazing.
P1: I used a #3 & #4 C4 and felt very comfortable that way.
P3: Use the Lost at Sea bolted anchor after the hand crack. Every stance above this either has questionable gear or is semi-hanging.
|By Will Barnes|
From: Edmonton, AB
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13
I agree, the topo says to keep climbing past the bolted anchor after the handcrack on pitch two but this made no sense to me. You have to climb a good bit further before you can get decent gear for an anchor and the stance is less than ideal. I can't think of any reason you wouldn't want to use the bolted anchor.