L to R R to L Alpha
Atlantis is found in a deep cleft on the right just past the big tunnel you go through when driving from Superior in the direction of Globe. The rock tends to be less pocketed and more small edges than a lot of areas at Queen Creek. This is one of the few areas that you can climb at near Phoenix in the summer time, if you show up early and switch sides of the canyon with the shade.
Atlantis is reached by parking in a small lot just past the tunnel on the right. It is possible to rap in, but easier to scramble down on the right (BE CAREFUL!!!) on loose ledges to reach the bottom of the canyon and then go left (skiers left) to go into the canyon to the routes.
37 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Atlantis:
First Born 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Giggling Marlin 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport
Sir Charles 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch
Grumpy after Eight 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 65'
Neptune 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 85'
Trinity is My Name 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
KGB 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 80'
Impending Doom 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Schizophrenic Boulevard 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 80'
Feast and Famine 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 80'
Slap & Tickle 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
The Mangler 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Armed and Dangerous 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Public Hanging 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Smokin Guns 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Public Hanging Direct 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Shoot First, Ask Later 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Cracka ass Cracka 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Phantom 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
All Kings Men 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Featured Route For Atlantis
Unknown Dihedral 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis
Scramble up to a ledge and optionally clip the first bolt of "Impending Doom". Follow the crack and either step left to hit the anchors of "Impending Doom" or venture further on easier ground. A small tree makes for a natural anchor should the route be followed to completion.This route lists as a 5.3 in the pocket guide but I would grade it a 5.6. Also be aware that the rappel off the tree may require two ropes -- it would certainly be close. I rapped off the tree to the anchors of "Impendin...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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