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Athos Arete 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Aaron James Parlier
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 484
Submitted By: Aaron James Parlier on Jun 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Aaron in the crux slopey section

Description 

-really fun-
When looking at the main huge expansion of overhanging boulder awesomeness that is the Olympus Boulder, you will notice that it is actually made up of two huge boulder blades, the left being set forward more-so than the right.
on that left blade, you will find the Athos Arete traveling along the proud right corner of the left boulder.

-Note: this should be no surprise, but the right boulder is off... Rephrased... Just climb the arete. Use common sense.-

sitstart at the very bottom on a good stretch of ledgy laybacks, and with a jammed right foot and a left foot on a jib. move up to a smooth bulge hand, followed by a hard set of moves beyond that, all with a jammed right foot.
move through several good, juggy, hand moves and heel hooks as the arete trends left. follow higher to more good hands and rest if needed. move to the highball feeling top portion through good hands and top out wherever you feel good at the top, even traversing more to the left and useing the rail below as feet.

Location 

When looking at the main huge expansion of overhanging boulder awesomeness that is the Olympus Boulder, you will notice that it is actually made up of two huge boulder blades, the left being set forward more-so than the right.
on that left blade, you will find the Athos Arete traveling along the proud right corner of the left boulder.

Protection 

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The Tim O'Neal
The Tim O'Neal

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By Jay Shultis
Administrator
From: Blacksburg VA
May 17, 2011

OK, First I must say I have never done this problem, but it looks soooo nice! Now the rant: Why ruin a beautiful line by making a totally contrived problem? This is not a gym, IMO bouldering is wayyy to pure to have to worry about contrivities especially when you have the amount of rock that exists at GHSP. The problem should just be SDS, climb arete(any way you want/can). If that bumps the grade down then that is what the problem is, no? Add eliminates at will, but again you have so much rock here, what would be the point?

-Jay
By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
May 17, 2011

I hear you Jay:

I feel the exact same way as you do and I hate stupid eliminates... Out off all of the problems Ive FAd in GHSP, I can count on one hand the Eliminates that Ive included. This is one of those exceptions.

You would just have to climb it honestly. I wont try to convince you either way or spray about how good it is or whatever. And if you do eventually make it here sometime, and you do climb it, and you somehow hate it... By all means get on here and add the "non-contrived" version to the list.

So far everyone has really enjoyed it. And its not dumb, like "Dont you even dab, even the slightest bit" but more common sense... Just climb the arete.

Its one of those lines like Moneyshot, Center Line, Daves Line, Brooklyn Bridge, ect at Roadside... It would be great with or without the lower foot on, but its just not the same. In this case it would be great with the other blade for sure, but just not the same.

But I know it feels good to rant on eliminates, and Im with you on it. I hate em too, and Ill rarely add them (except in cases such as this).
By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
May 17, 2011

I rephrased the "Note:" in the description to better sum up the outlook on it.
By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
May 17, 2011

Actually next time I'm out there Ill climb it using both and post it. I'm sure its awesome...
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
May 17, 2011
rating: V5 6C

Jay I can see why you would say this.... my experience is that Its not one of those routes where you need to force yourself to stay off of the right hand boulder. You have to make a conscious choice to do just the arete or the arete with the right wall on. Either way once you pull your butt off the ground you dont even think about it...
By Jay Shultis
Administrator
From: Blacksburg VA
May 20, 2011

Right on, def looks sweet.