ATC Guide Question
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So, I'm just learning to trad climb and all the trad climbs I have done thus far have bolted anchors. I put lockers in the two bolts, run cordalette through them, do the "X" or "twist" to make the anchor redundant, and then put a locker in the master point. I then take the eyehole of the ATC-guide and clip it to the master point. I generally anchor myself using a sling looped through my tie in loops attached to a locker which I clip directly to the bolts. |
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You need an anchor book (john long's 2nd edition is good) and a mentor to show you some things. |
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In short, instead of doing the "X", tie an eight on a bight. Clip yourself into the "top shelf" of the anchor (through multiple strands in case one side fails) and clip your guide to the bight on the eight. |
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1. One locker is safe for attaching the ATC Guide to the master point in guide mode. When you've got the rope going directly into the master point, two biners are good for redundancy (though I usually use only one locker in that scenario), but I see not reason for two biners using the Guide. |
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Chris: Wouldn't clovehitching to the masterpoint be stressing the locker in three ways? I mean, considering I'm just standing on a ledge, it's unlikely I will shock the anchor, but still, I was always taught you only want to pull biners in two directions. |
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Zach Friedman wrote:Chris: Wouldn't clovehitching to the masterpoint be stressing the locker in three ways? I mean, considering I'm just standing on a ledge, it's unlikely I will shock the anchor, but still, I was always taught you only want to pull biners in two directions. Sam: I have tied an eight on a bite, but is clipping in to the cordalette above the masterpoint safe. Again, I doubt I'm shocking the anchor falling off a belay ledge, but even still, is just clipping into the strands of the cordalette above the masterpoint legit?If you clip into the masterpoint, do so on a seperate locker than the guide. Otherwise, the whole thing will turn into a cluster when you are tangled in both ropes and trying to manage your lap coil. Also, if you are in on the same locker, you can't escape without opening the gate of the locker that you are belaying from. On bolted routes, clipping in to the bolts can be nice because you can offset yourself from the masterpoint but it becomes an ordeal when you have three pieces. I still clip into the top shelf, regardless of the anchor. Yes, its safe to do if you do it right and you built the anchor correctly. Get Craig Luebben's matering the basics or anchor book. It will make all of this clearer. Evan |
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Zach Friedman wrote:Chris: Sam: I have tied an eight on a bite, but is clipping in to the cordalette above the masterpoint safe. Again, I doubt I'm shocking the anchor falling off a belay ledge, but even still, is just clipping into the strands of the cordalette above the masterpoint legit?Yep, it's called the "shelf" and just make sure that you are going through several of the strands. Typically I always clip into the shelf and leave the masterpoint either for the ATC or for my second. If chains are available I'll also exercise the option to use my PAS to clip into the chain. |
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Here, check these video's out. It is worth paying the $10.00 for the added info too. There are just two many different ways to set up an anchor to explain on this site. |
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Scott, |
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Zach Friedman wrote:Scott, So if I'm understanding you correctly, the locker attached to the sling acting as my personal anchor should sit above the eight on bite? Clip that locker to a few strands of the cordalette above the knot and I should be all set?Here is a picture directly out of Luebben's book. The climber is clipped into multiple strands of the anchor, but not just around one leg. The belay device is on the eight on a bight. anchor set up with topshelf and guide |
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Correct-a-mundo. The key is just making sure that you pass your locker through a few of the strands. You'll note in the above picture as well that the anchor is still set up to load correctly in event of a fall. |
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I would recommend both Luebben's book and Long's book on anchors. Read them both, it helps to hear the same thing different ways. And like many people on here have said, there are too many different ways to do this and everybody has a preference that works for them. I choose the equalette over the eight on a bite because it offers better equalization at the cost of a bit more extension. You'll find how to do this in Long's book. In this case I clip into the X between the limiter knots with a separate biner right next to my biner going to the Guide and I sometimes also put a 3rd biner in the same spot for my 2nd to clip their rope into when they get up because it's not always easy to get a biner in there if its loaded at all. |