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YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

Type:  Trad, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,606
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Jun 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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I think this is the start of Atalanta. Please let...

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This is a short (by First Flatiron standards) 3-4 pitch route on the Southern side of the East face of the First.

The quality of the rock is good although pro is not that easy to find.

The route starts some 200 feet above (South) the start of Baker's Way. The start can be reached by staying on the trail between the First and the Second and looking for the next "easy" way to get on the face after Baker's Way.

Look for and easy, broken groove that heads Northeast for some 30 feet.

Climb the groove to a small ledge and head up a small dihedral with a small, East-facing ramp leading to a short steep face (crux). Roach mentions the existence of an old piton after the crux, but we either missed it or it was gone when we did the route.

After the crux, you can either continue up the dihedral to a tree and then the North Arete, or you can move left onto the East face of the false summit. The latter option provides a cool but relatively unprotected face climb.

From the North Arete, take a left and reach the summit in one pitch or less.

Descent - rap down or downclimb the Southwest face.


Standard Flatiron, small pieces.

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By Mark Oveson
From: Louisville, Colorado
Sep 6, 2006

This is the best of the short routes high on the East Face of the First Flatiron. The crux is short and secure. A climb not to be missed.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 6, 2006

The piton is still there, look carefully about 15 feet ABOVE the crux. It looks like someone bent it over with a hammer, you couldn't clip a biner into it. You could sling it with a runner, though.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Dec 1, 2013

I did an interesting variation above the first tree. Head left to a ramp system that turns into a hanging dihedral. The ramp slowing disppears until the crux bulge (5.6). It is very exposed with good rock (poor pro).
By Daniel H. Bryant
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 7, 2014

Entered onto this route at the large tree mid-way, we took Kamikaze straight up to it. We connected the top of the first 70m pitch of Kamikaze to the big tree via a 70m pitch. If you decide to try this, be careful cause there are weak/decomposing flakes along this pitch (easy climbing but sketchy rock), 2/3 along this pitch is a bulge, I went left and it felt 5.6ish, the right looked a bit harder.
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