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Upper Walt's Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1995 Budget Closure S 
At Your Pleasure T 
Crack Queen T 
Drag Queen T 
Mojave Queen T 
Route Beer T 
Upper Mojave T 
Where Were You? T 
White Rain T 

At Your Pleasure 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Season: sunny
Page Views: 1,420
Submitted By: tony grice on Dec 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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At Your Pleasure

Description 

This route starts up hill and left of white rain, a hand crack goes out the left side of a huge chimney with chockstones. Follow this straight up through a nice jamming section to a slot with a nolina. Continue past the bush to the top.

Location 

Hike up and left of White Rain about 100 yds till you see a huge chimney/gully with chockstone. The route starts on the right side of the chimney.

Easy approach from the top of Perfect Fingers.

Protection 

Standard trad rack up to 2.5 inch, nuts too. Runners.Trad anchor . Rap off bolts for nearby sporty climb with 60 m rope.


Photos of At Your Pleasure Slideshow Add Photo
"At youre pleasure"=yellow dots.  "...
BETA PHOTO: "At youre pleasure"=yellow dots. "...
Start off a boulder and get to the crack.
BETA PHOTO: Start off a boulder and get to the crack.

Comments on At Your Pleasure Add Comment
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By tony grice
Dec 7, 2007

Enlarge topo photo to full size.
The yellow dots are "at your pleasure" 5.8
The red dot Variation was awsome. Not shure what the name of what we did is but It was cool. Nice and long too. Sunny rock , awsome hike. Can't ask for much more.
Go up the start of at your pleasure , when you enter the slot below the nolina plant hang a hard right ,do an unprotected face traverse ( R for follower too. Definately not the crux, heads up but not scary) nice little posi holds and huge feet get you across the trverse into a stellar traversing hand crack with a Juggy finish I'd say 5.8 for the whole thing. Great gear all the way execpt for the balancy face traverse. Awsome route. Kinda pumpy, Nice!
Do It!
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Mar 5, 2008

Was full of biting red ants when I did it last weekend.
By ChugachMan
Apr 8, 2008
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

My friend Taryn experienced the ants on lead on April 5th, but when I followed I saw a total of four! I think she carried them all to the top crawling all over her... does anybody know what the bolted route about 40 feet to the right of this is called (marked in blue on Tony's map)? It goes up the face, and I'd guess the upper part is in the 9- or 10a range (we didn't climb the lower part though)... it's a sweet route, and a bit heady if you don't bring a couple pieces of gear to place between the 2 and 3rd bolts of the second pitch.
By Taryn
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 8, 2008
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Ants! I don't even remember the moves on the bottom part of this climb. I was too busy being covered in ants! AG! Still, it was a fun route. Maybe the ants are seasonal?
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 7, 2011

No ants at the end of December (too busy hunting for the after Christmas sales....) What's the best way off this thing? We ended up rapping off of the mixed route to the right, down to a ledge, walking climbers right to a bulge with anchors and rapping a second time down to the area near the base of White Rain. A 70 was definitely not long enough to rap off of Mojave Queen (to the left of White Rain.)
By Lou Hibbard
From: Eagan, MN
Oct 29, 2011

Because of the elevation not recommended on cold days. Very cold when we were there.
By Tradoholic
Feb 3, 2013

One of the only easy climbs around here and good for a warm up. No ants for me either. Also, it starts out of the right side of the chimney not the left as stated in the description.
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Feb 5, 2013

The traverse makes the climb - highly recommended!
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Mar 25, 2013

Dan, I think the descent you described is the best way off.