At Your Pleasure 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Season: | sunny |
| Submitted By: | tony grice on Dec 7, 2007 |
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At Your Pleasure
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Description This route starts up hill and left of white rain, a hand crack goes out the left side of a huge chimney with chockstones. Follow this straight up through a nice jamming section to a slot with a nolina. Continue past the bush to the top.
Location Hike up and left of White Rain about 100 yds till you see a huge chimney/gully with chockstone. The route starts on the right side of the chimney. Easy approach from the top of Perfect Fingers.
Protection Standard trad rack up to 2.5 inch, nuts too. Runners.Trad anchor . Rap off bolts for nearby sporty climb with 60 m rope.
BETA PHOTO: "At youre pleasure"=yellow dots. "unknown var we ...
| BETA PHOTO: Start off a boulder and get to the crack.
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| Comments on At Your Pleasure |
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By tony grice Dec 7, 2007
| Enlarge topo photo to full size. The yellow dots are "at your pleasure" 5.8 The red dot Variation was awsome. Not shure what the name of what we did is but It was cool. Nice and long too. Sunny rock , awsome hike. Can't ask for much more. Go up the start of at your pleasure , when you enter the slot below the nolina plant hang a hard right ,do an unprotected face traverse ( R for follower too. Definately not the crux, heads up but not scary) nice little posi holds and huge feet get you across the trverse into a stellar traversing hand crack with a Juggy finish I'd say 5.8 for the whole thing. Great gear all the way execpt for the balancy face traverse. Awsome route. Kinda pumpy, Nice! Do It! |
By Scotty Nelson From: Boulder Mar 5, 2008
| Was full of biting red ants when I did it last weekend. |
By ChugachMan Apr 8, 2008 rating: 5.8-
| My friend Taryn experienced the ants on lead on April 5th, but when I followed I saw a total of four! I think she carried them all to the top crawling all over her... does anybody know what the bolted route about 40 feet to the right of this is called (marked in blue on Tony's map)? It goes up the face, and I'd guess the upper part is in the 9- or 10a range (we didn't climb the lower part though)... it's a sweet route, and a bit heady if you don't bring a couple pieces of gear to place between the 2 and 3rd bolts of the second pitch. |
By Taryn From: San Diego, CA Apr 8, 2008 rating: 5.8-
| Ants! I don't even remember the moves on the bottom part of this climb. I was too busy being covered in ants! AG! Still, it was a fun route. Maybe the ants are seasonal? |
By Dan G0D5H411 From: Colorado Springs, CO Jan 7, 2011
| No ants at the end of December (too busy hunting for the after Christmas sales....) What's the best way off this thing? We ended up rapping off of the mixed route to the right, down to a ledge, walking climbers right to a bulge with anchors and rapping a second time down to the area near the base of White Rain. A 70 was definitely not long enough to rap off of Mojave Queen (to the left of White Rain.) |
By Lou Hibbard From: Eagan, MN Oct 29, 2011
| Because of the elevation not recommended on cold days. Very cold when we were there. |
By Trad Nanny Feb 3, 2013
| One of the only easy climbs around here and good for a warm up. No ants for me either. Also, it starts out of the right side of the chimney not the left as stated in the description. |
By roman d From: Pasadena, CA Feb 5, 2013
| The traverse makes the climb - highly recommended! |
By Brian Prince From: morro bay, ca Mar 25, 2013
| Dan, I think the descent you described is the best way off. |
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