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Gyno Wall
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At Your Cervix, Madam S 

At Your Cervix, Madam 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Marc Beverly, Lance Hadfield
Page Views: 335
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Sep 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Stemming out to get to that 3rd bolt.

Description 

This short route climbs excellent rock with powerful, long reaches and lockoffs between good holds. Scramble up into the scoop, and crank between horizontal breaks. As you ascend, the angle lessens, as do the holds, leading to a distinct crux that can be surmounted with a painful fingerlock. This route will feel reachy for the height impaired climber.

Location 

The left-most route on the Gyno Wall. Cross the creek at The Broken Arrows and walk 50' upstream.

Protection 

4 Bolts to ghetto wire/stud anchor setup.


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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 17, 2007

Cool route, has some very unique climbing on it for the grade. I thought the crux was lower getting the horizontal at the second bolt. I had to do a mini deadpoint through this section, which made it feel harder not knowing what the horizontal was like. Sure enough though it was a jug.