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YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Hare & Mike Downing, 1987
Page Views: 533
Submitted By: tbol on Dec 7, 2009

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  • Description 

    This route begins with either pitch 1 of Bolt Cola or the shallow crack one route left (5.10a), belay at the anchor for Bolt Cola.

    Pitch two heads up and slightly left to an old bolt and fixed pin right next to each other. From here, head up and slightly right over a small roof to a ledge with a giant, and very cool, eagle's nest (9+ S). The rock here is a little suspect, as are some of the gear placements; be careful not to disturb the eagle's nest. Also, the belay for the second pitch is tat around a possibly questionable flake; good hand-sized pieces will make this belay bomber though.

    From the ledge, launch directly up into sequential and somewhat tenuous climbing through a thin feature that arcs up and right (12a). The bolts here are old and questionable, with the third being the best. As of right now the rope hanging from the third is also in poor condition. I suggest not clipping it. Right at the third bolt is the crux, but several in obvious moves lead up into the left-facing corner above that used to be protected by a fixed pin. I placed two very small nuts here that both blew when I pumped out and whipped on them. The fall is clean but watchout for the ledge below, it is very possible you may hit it from a fall above the third bolt. Once established in the corner above, place good gear and head straight up the finish of Center Direct to a large belay ledge.

    To descend, take this same class 3/class 4 walk off ledge to the left.


    Light rack with a couple hand size pieces and emphasis on small stuff, ~10 QDs.
    Pitch three probably deserves an R rating now that the fixed pin is gone.

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