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Tijeras Peak
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Astromarmot 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Brent Wise, J C Wilks, Denise Wilks - July 5, 1999
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,839
Submitted By: J C Wilks on Feb 23, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Astromarmot is route 2

Description 

Start at the top right of the snowfield at +/-12,600 ft. Fourth Class it up a right-leaning, narrow ramp to a good stance. Trend left for two pitches across a face then a crack to the right end of the slabby, diagonal ramp. Follow the top of the ramp for a long pitch then a short pitch before you reach the left end, to stop below a hopefully dry, waterfall trough. Go straight up this crux pitch. Another pitch takes you to the top of the east ridge. Simulclimb to the summit or descend NW.


Location 

In the central section of the south face, left of the large obvious gully, look for a giant ramp high on the wall at about 12,600 ft.


Protection 

Use a full trad rack. A few Knife Blades and Bugaboos may be useful.



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