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Sunshine Wall
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Astro Turkey 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Charlie Fowler & Kyle Copeland
Page Views: 1,894
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Photo courtesy of Ben Cook.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is located on Sunshine Wall to the right of Turkey Foot Crack. It is best to establish a belay on the sloping ledge by the tree (hand-sized pieces in the crack).

Steep 5.10 crack and face climbing take you to a stance below the crux. Luckily, it has three fixed pins because it is helpful having both hands available to stay on the rock through the technical crux section.

Tie off the small tree because the next bit of gear above the pins is small and not particularly confidence building. Be brave because 1/2 move higher gets you some good cams. Save some juice for the sting in the tail before the anchor. 80'.

Protection 

Standard rack with RPs, Aliens.


Photos of Astro Turkey Slideshow Add Photo
Photo: Ben Cook.
Photo: Ben Cook.
Astro Turkey, 5.11.
BETA PHOTO: Astro Turkey, 5.11.
In the first 5.10 section, it gets a little spicy above this stance.
In the first 5.10 section, it gets a little spicy ...
Photo: Ben Cook.
Photo: Ben Cook.

Comments on Astro Turkey Add Comment
Show which comments
By Patrick Peddy
From: evergreen,co
Jan 26, 2009

One of my favorite pitches in all of the Cathedral Spires Area. The climb has really cool moves, good protection (RPs, nuts and small cams), and surprisingly large holds at the rests between the harder moves. A party can descend after the first pitch; anchors are in place as of '98. My friends Dave and Kevin believe the 3 pins at the crux are still in good shape. The gear to back up these pins is bomber.- Pat
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 27, 2009

All presumably inspired by Yosemite's Astroman: Astro Dog (Black Canyon), Astro Monkey (Smith Rocks), Astro Lad (Moab), Astro Bunny (Colorado Nat Mon), Astro Elephant (Elephant's Perch, ID) and Astro Turkey!
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 27, 2009

Don't forget Astropoodle (Joshua Tree), AstroHulk (Incredible Hulk) and AstroYam (Yamnuska).
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 28, 2009

Good point! These don't come up if you do a search for "astro", 'cause they're one word I guess.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Dec 2, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Don't forget the RPs and plenty of draws. Great route that climbs a lot better/different than what one would think. A 70m will barely get you safely to the ground with no down climbing.
By Roy Leggett
Jan 15, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

The crux knifeblade is no longer in place. As I led the route today, I gave the pin a quick test and it came half-way out. I deliberated for a while (read: cussed a bit), thought about bailing, but pushed it back in and finished the route feeling a bit uneasy about the whole process. On my way down, I gave it one mild tug and it came right out.
If I get a chance, I'll try to head back up and replace it soon. Be forewarned, the crux section is a bit runout now (still?).
I'll echo the lots of draws comment. I used all 13 that I had and wanted about 3 more.
By heppnerd
Nov 1, 2012

Better than the Standard Route.
By Kent Pease
From: Littleton, Colorado
Dec 2, 2012

You can rap this route with a single 60m rope, but be careful. The rope will easily reach the bushy ledge to the right where you start the actual climb, but the down-scramble from there is a little sketchy. Alternatively, go to the next ledge - with stretch our rope was a foot short, but it "worked".
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Feb 25, 2014

Little freaky deaky in the crux. There's a great, blind #1 RP placement instead of a pin, though!