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 ADVANCED
Monkey Face
Select Route:
Astro Monkey T 
Backbone, The S 
East Face T 
Just Do It S 
Monkey Off My Back S 
Monkey Space S 
North Face, The T 
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 
Pioneer Route T,S 
Rising Expectations T 
Spank the Monkey S 
West Face (Aid) T 
West Face Variation T 
West Face Variation Direct T 

Astro Monkey 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FFA of entire route A.Watts & C. Grover, 1983
Page Views: 4,239
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Apr 8, 2006

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Just below the west face cave after the crux on pi...
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1: Sustained difficult face climbing on thin edges past three bolts gains a very thin crack and 1 more bolt to a small roof. Above the roof easy climbing leads to a two bolt anchor (11d).

Pitch 2: A steep finger crack for 12' leads to lower angle climbing and an anchor at the base of a left facing and slanting dihedral (5.9).

Pitch 3: Sustained 5.10 climbing in the dihedral (some fixed gear) leads to a bolt above a roof. Pull the roof (11a) and belay on a small ledge.

Pitch 4: This short pitch goes up a dihedral and right around a small roof to a large ledge (Bohn Street) (10-).

Pitch 5 and 6: Finish on Monkey Space (5.11).


Location 

This route begins at the base of the west side of the Monkey. Rappel down the east face of the Monkey from the summitt.


Protection 

Gear to 2" and many quick draws.



Photos of Astro Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
Nearing the roof on the first pitch a few hundred feet below the monkey's head.
Nearing the roof on the first pitch a few hundred ...
Steve Drake on the steep and clean portion of the 5.9 crack on pitch #2.
Steve Drake on the steep and clean portion of the ...
The corner on pitch 3.
The corner on pitch 3.
Comments on Astro Monkey Add Comment
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By Bob Graham
Jun 28, 2010

One of the best routes I have done at Smith, super classic. The anchor at the base of the 3rd pitch steep dihedral is old an mankey.

By ktaylor
From: Bay Area, CA
Jun 29, 2010

Yeah Bob!

By Jon Rhoderick
Jul 10, 2012

A superb climb I will climb again and again. The first pitch is slowly getting harder we found it to be stiff for 12a and the difficulties persist on gear. Second time round I tried moving in stereo as a start which I enjoyed much more. I recommend stick clipping (possibly with the crutches!) for the first bolt. The first bolt is some pebble pinching and then the climbing eases until a crux at the second to last bolt or so. Nic and I pulled the shitty bolts on P2&3 belay anchors but the bottom bolts of both starting pitches are very suspect 1/4" bolts with hard to clip hangers. I plan on upgrading these this fall but anyone is welcome to beat me to it!
Jon

By Mark Hudon
Apr 8, 2014

An Excellent route. All the bolts are pretty modern and good as of 4/7/14.