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Pitch 1: Sustained difficult face climbing on thin edges past three bolts gains a very thin crack and 1 more bolt to a small roof. Above the roof easy climbing leads to a two bolt anchor (11d).
Pitch 2: A steep finger crack for 12' leads to lower angle climbing and an anchor at the base of a left facing and slanting dihedral (5.9).
Pitch 3: Sustained 5.10 climbing in the dihedral (some fixed gear) leads to a bolt above a roof. Pull the roof (11a) and belay on a small ledge.
Pitch 4: This short pitch goes up a dihedral and right around a small roof to a large ledge (Bohn Street) (10-).
Pitch 5 and 6: Finish on Monkey Space (5.11).
This route begins at the base of the west side of the Monkey. Rappel down the east face of the Monkey from the summitt.
Gear to 2" and many quick draws.
Steve Drake on the steep and clean portion of the ...
Just below the west face cave after the crux on pi...
The corner on pitch 3.
|By Bob Graham|
Jun 28, 2010
One of the best routes I have done at Smith, super classic. The anchor at the base of the 3rd pitch steep dihedral is old an mankey.
From: Portland, OR
Jun 29, 2010
|By Jon Rhoderick|
Jul 10, 2012
A superb climb I will climb again and again. The first pitch is slowly getting harder we found it to be stiff for 12a and the difficulties persist on gear. Second time round I tried moving in stereo as a start which I enjoyed much more. I recommend stick clipping (possibly with the crutches!) for the first bolt. The first bolt is some pebble pinching and then the climbing eases until a crux at the second to last bolt or so. Nic and I pulled the shitty bolts on P2&3 belay anchors but the bottom bolts of both starting pitches are very suspect 1/4" bolts with hard to clip hangers. I plan on upgrading these this fall but anyone is welcome to beat me to it!