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Routes in The Tan Buttresses
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[Redacted] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Anniversary Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Astro Goat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Black and Tan Towers, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Damn it Feels Good to be a Hamsta T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dog Fight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fallen Angel T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Goat Food T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Hard to Say T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hoag-Fisher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lazy Sunday Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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MOAC Memorial Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Musafar's Home Cookin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Noth'N But a Good Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Pin Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Space Miser T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Work-Life Balance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | FA J. Finkelstein & B. Collett, Sept. 2010, FFA: Dakota Walz & Michael Hauck, Sept. 2018 |
| Page Views: | 2,030 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Collett on Sep 19, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route straightens out Goat Food, climbing its excellent crux pitch and adding a considerable amount of hard climbing. Expect continuous strenuous climbing.
1) Dice your way up to the base of the corner, over a crazy fin to a really small fixed nut. Follow the corner past technical, strenuous and sustained moves to the end of the dihedral. Step slightly left and follow a series of corners to a belay on a small ledge by a small roof. 5.11 A0, 120 feet (this will be 11+ or 12- when done clean).
2) Place good gear, step over the roof and punch it up to a small ledge. From here, continue up the corner past a larger roof at around 40 feet. Then follow a chimney system up to the spacious ledge below Goat Food's crux. 5.11, 170 feet.
3) Climb Goat Food's fantastic, left-facing corner crux, step right at the roof, then back left to a ramp system and belay on another comfortable ledge. 5.11a, 130 feet.
4) Climb the steep, blocky crack directly above the belay to the ridge crest. 5.10-, 60 feet.
Scramble to the top of the buttress.
1) Dice your way up to the base of the corner, over a crazy fin to a really small fixed nut. Follow the corner past technical, strenuous and sustained moves to the end of the dihedral. Step slightly left and follow a series of corners to a belay on a small ledge by a small roof. 5.11 A0, 120 feet (this will be 11+ or 12- when done clean).
2) Place good gear, step over the roof and punch it up to a small ledge. From here, continue up the corner past a larger roof at around 40 feet. Then follow a chimney system up to the spacious ledge below Goat Food's crux. 5.11, 170 feet.
3) Climb Goat Food's fantastic, left-facing corner crux, step right at the roof, then back left to a ramp system and belay on another comfortable ledge. 5.11a, 130 feet.
4) Climb the steep, blocky crack directly above the belay to the ridge crest. 5.10-, 60 feet.
Scramble to the top of the buttress.
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