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Sun Devil Wall
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Astro Devil 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Aaron Miller (FFA-Aaron Miller and Josh Smith)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,264
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Feb 21, 2011

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Anna enjoying the fun face climbing on pitch 2.

Description 

The first pitch starts on the right-most side of the Solar Cave and heads up some awkward and steep rock through multiple tricky moves. At the 5th bolt, it begins to trend up and right to eventually reach the Sun Devil ledge system right below the Astro Devil face that shares space with the first anchor of Sun Devil. From here, one elegant pitch followed by one wild pitch take you to the top-out.

Descend by 3 rappels, the last being a rope stretcher for a 60m, so be careful. You can also easily walk off the back of the beautiful Diablo Mesa straight to the car.

For anyone climbing at, above, or near the 5.11 grade, this route is NOT TO BE MISSED!!!!!

Location 

This route parallels Sun Devil to the climbers left on an inset part of the main wall so it does get some wind shelter on cold days, but stays well in the sun for most of it. However, because of its sheltered position, it doesn't get the sun until closer to noon. In the Winter, take the opportunity to get warmed on another route or two before the business kicks in at the first bolt! In the Summer, this route will stay cool in the shade until about noon.

Start at the extreme right side of the Solar Cave but on the same level platform as the other right side routes (ILL, Native Rituals etc.) but 30 feet left of the start of Sun Devil. This route actually shares the first 30 feet of what used to be "Suicidal Society" before I overhauled the rotten rock and moved several bolts accordingly. Look for a fixed draw for the 3rd clip and follow the route as it trends right. From the anchor at Sun Devil ledge, step left and follow the bolt line up the pretty face.

Protection 

Bring at least 13 draws. The belays are on pretty good ledges.


Photos of Astro Devil Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 2 of Astro Devil
Pitch 2 of Astro Devil
Patrick on pitch 2 of Astro Devil
Patrick on pitch 2 of Astro Devil
Amber nearing the 1st-pitch crux of "Astro De...
BETA PHOTO: Amber nearing the 1st-pitch crux of "Astro De...

Comments on Astro Devil Add Comment
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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Feb 22, 2011

Nice Aaron! How does the rock compare to Sun Devil? From the beta photo, it looks like the second pitch may go through some of the white colored rock that is similar in nature to Pale Face over on the Winter Wall....any truth to this?
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Feb 22, 2011

A fantastic mix of climbing, all on great rock representing the best of Diablo Cyn. The first pitch much in the Solar Cave style of tricky movement, the second pitch similar to the style found on Pale Face, and the third pitch is just unique and enjoyable climbing with great position.

-a
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 22, 2011

I can only speak for the third pitch (haven't been on the lower pitches) but the rock and movement is just fantastic on the last pitch. Well done Mr. Miller.
By Amy Jordan
Jan 22, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Now there are two bolt lines branching out on the first pitch - take the righthand one to stay on Astro Devil. It goes up to a huge ledge for the Astro Devil belay, while the left branch goes to a so-so stance for the Icarus belay.
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Jul 4, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

This is an excellent route, with eclectic and sustained climbing the whole way up! Nice work, Aaron!

The first pitch is a bit awkward but the climbing is actually quite fun and makes you think. The second pitch is crimpy and technical, and the third tackles a series of fun roofs, with cool face climbing in between. I thought the 2nd pitch was the most difficult, but all three pitches involve sustained 5.11 climbing.

The climb stays in the shade in summer until around 12 or 1pm.
By Sky Sjue
From: Santa Fe
Sep 2, 2012

This route is brutal on a hot, sunny day (DUH).
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
May 15, 2013

On a hot sunny day, be off the wall before noon, maybe 11:30.
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 1, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Excellent! I just wanted it to keep going for a 1000ft. Very sustained and interesting climbing with each pitch better than the last. I had looked at this face 15yrs ago and thought it would be a great route. Nice work, keep it coming.