I struggled for almost two years on what to do with this area. At first I figured I would just leave it alone as it's a little too high to boulder and a little short to bolt. It kept popping into my head though, I really liked many of the holds and moves and found myself going back. On days where I was short on time but still wanted to get on the rock I would head up there because it was low on the mountain, had a short approach and I needed nothing more then two quick-draws and a half rope so I could pack light.
Astoria is perfect for people with a fear of heights, somebody that needs a fairly gentle approach, a person that wants to climb outside but isn't leading or to show new climbers the ropes including how to clean anchors.
Don't be fooled however, there are some tough moves to be found here that are a nice deviation from the normal stuff you find on Lemmon including a ton of side pulls. If you're leading 5.11s this area will bore you but if you want a change of pace, mellow climbing or an area to introduce people to climbing this is ideal. You also can't beat the summer shade, winter sun, amazing views and if you can't handle being without your phone you even have cell reception (which is a negative to me).
While I wouldn't call the climbing child friendly (5.5) climbing, the area and approach are virtually free of hazards.
- This is a work in progress so I will be adding to this over the next week or two as I get the lines up.
If you follow the topo that should put you right there. You will approach as if you're going to Jailhouse however instead of dropping into the was and walking past that little platform on the left you will take the trail leading up the hill just before the sandy wash. You will take that up to the top of the ridge and from there cut left up the wash (there's a tree growing right in the middle of it). Head up that until it levels out and head as if you're going to Boot Hill which will take you to the top of the climbs. You can scramble right to the base of them without much trouble.
6 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Astoria
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Astoria:
Data 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Goonies 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c TR, 25'
Featured Route For Astoria
News and Events For Astoria
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Chains at the top for the east part of the rock, t...
Anchors for One-Eyed Willie and Mouth.
BETA PHOTO: Beautiful pic of "Sloth". This is currently the ri...
BETA PHOTO: Face to the right of "Sloth". No routes here yet.
BETA PHOTO: Middle section of the wall. "Data" is the groove o...
From: Tucson, Arizona
Sep 11, 2011
We added and enlarged the cairns leading to the cliff. Take Soldier Trail south from the metal trail sign just before you the wash that leads to Jailhouse Rock. Follow the trail uphill, as soon as it levels out turn left into the drainage (marked by cairn ontop of aprox 2'x4' boulder). Follow cairns/drainadge uphill for about 100 yards and the crag is on the right. The easiest way to reach the bottom is around the downhill side (right side looking off the top, left side looking at the cliff) but you can get down on either side.
From left to right the routes are:
One Eyed Willie*
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 26, 2011
Great place for a quick climb on a late afternoon. Gorgeous views of BootHill; etc. We've seen a few deer here!