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Morning Star Extension
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2 from 6
votes
Routes in (4) Star Wall
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Cry of the Gerbil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dark Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Daytime Drama S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Freon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jonny and the Melonheads T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Last Days T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Left Wing T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lethal Dose T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Levitate T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mantra T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mantra Extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Morning Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Morning Star Extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Neutron Star T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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St. Paddee's Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tim S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Turning Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Forrest Kaye |
| Page Views: | 1,054 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Forrest on Aug 11, 2014 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Extension for Morning Star. Continue up to the right past the Morning Star anchors. Follow a thin crack for 15 ft then traverse left and up through the final steep section. Easier climbing to a large ledge just below the rim. Use a 70 m rope to lower to the ground. Tie a knot in the end of the rope a 70 just reaches.
Protection
I added 3 bolts to the route. It seemed like a needed enhancement. Still bring ~.5/.75 to protect the last move if the bolt just down the right of of you is too far away.
If you want to do it all trad: Bring small nuts and cams to protect the lower section, a .5 purple BD fits nicely as you pull the last bulge at the crux.
Photos
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