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Ass Over Teacup 

5.11a

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
FA: Strassman
Submitted By: Daryl Allan on Dec 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Great route! Another route that should see more traffic than it does. Crimp through thought provoking beginning over well-bolted, thin face up to crux at bulge then finish up a nice arête to anchor shared with Hell in a Handbasket.


Location 

Right most route of two bolted lines between OK Corral and left facing dihedral.


Protection 

Bolts to anchor shared with Hell in a Handbasket. Very well bolted. The route can be rapped with a 70m but you may have to swing over to a boulder to the left; knot the ends!! A top rope from the [shared] anchor would have a lot of rope drag. Instead, it's possible to use two 36" or 42" slings on two bolts (one borrowed from Hell in a Handbasket[left]) at the last bulge to make a top rope anchor. This can then be cleaned by continuing (leading) up to the anchor then rapping to either OK Corral anchor (with 60m) or to base (70m).



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By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Feb 8, 2013

Not sure how this could be considered 11a unless I completely missed the sequence at the crux? I can typically onsight up to 11d at most areas and I couldn't even figure this one out no matter what I tried.