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Ass Over Teacup 
Baby Jr. 
Baby Jr. Gets Spanked 
Big Nosed Kate 
Chosen One, The 
Cochise Toecheese 
Hell in a Handbasket 
Isle of You 
Jizzneyland 
Now It's My Turn 
OK Corral 
Rabbits Feat 
Rise and Shine, Cupcake 
Stone Woman 

Ass Over Teacup 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Mike Strassman
Page Views: 573
Submitted By: Daryl Allan on Dec 27, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Great route! Another route that should see more traffic than it does. Crimp through thought provoking beginning over well-bolted, thin face up to crux at bulge then finish up a nice arÍte to anchor shared with Hell in a Handbasket.


Location 

Right most route of two bolted lines between OK Corral and left facing dihedral.


Protection 

Bolts to anchor shared with Hell in a Handbasket. Very well bolted. The route can be rapped with a 70m but you may have to swing over to a boulder to the left; knot the ends!! A top rope from the [shared] anchor would have a lot of rope drag. Instead, it's possible to use two 36" or 42" slings on two bolts (one borrowed from Hell in a Handbasket[left]) at the last bulge to make a top rope anchor. This can then be cleaned by continuing (leading) up to the anchor then rapping to either OK Corral anchor (with 60m) or to base (70m).



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By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Feb 8, 2013

Not sure how this could be considered 11a unless I completely missed the sequence at the crux? I can typically onsight up to 11d at most areas and I couldn't even figure this one out no matter what I tried.

By Agjohns
From: Fort Collins Colorado
Jan 7, 2014
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b PG13

This route is amazing, hard sustained face climbing with a few extra hard defined crux sequences. Though this maybe a "Cochise 5.11" any other climbing area would likely rate it somewhere in the moderate to hard 5.12 range.