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 ADVANCED
Lower Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar 
Aspenleaf Dihedral 
Black Pearl 
Blows Against the Empire 
Chaucer 
Cornered, straight up variation 
Dihedral 
Do or Do Not 
Double Cracks 
Easy Off 
Empire Strikes Back, The 
Faith, Hope and Charity 
Fickle Finger of Eight 
Forbidden Planet 
Home Free 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) 
Just Another Girl's Climb 
Let's Jet 
Narrow Gate, The 
No Visible Means of Support 
Nova 
Off The Cuff 
Peanuts 
Pretender, The 
Right Escape 
Sacred and the Profane, The 
Scorpions 
Shield, The 
Sickle 
Star Track 
Strolling 
Tracer 
Trouble And Strife 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) 
Whiskey Gala 
Wired 
X-Wing 
Young, Blonde, and Easy 
Your Basic Lieback 

Aspenleaf Dihedral 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Brooks (free solo)
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Pins [details]
Page Views: 326
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 27, 2002
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is a flake and crack system in an open book dihedral. The line is attractive, but short and [tweaky]. The initial section of the route does indeed look like a 30' tall Aspen Leaf.

Aspenleaf Dihedral is directly above the route The Scared and the Profane. Few climbers would approach the route by this pitch, so consider getting there by going up and right of Blows Against the Empire (5.11) or Peanuts (5.9)or down and left of Just another Girl's Climb(5.12) or Your Basic Lieback (5.6), or a scramble to the right of Your Basic Lieback (5.Easy).

Set a belay on the ledge from gear or the bolt anchors above Just Another Girl's Climb (up and right of Aspenleaf's start).

Place a few small [pieces] on the right side of the aspen leaf and step up off of the ledge into the slightly overhanging route. This is the first crux (balancy 5.10). Continue up and left, crossing the dihedral at the leaf's tip to flakes on the left. Place gear whenever posssible, as there will be places where it is not so good. A fall should be plenty safe if this is considered. From the top of the leaf, climb easier rock (lower angle) up and left near a crack to reach a ledge with a tree and belay.

From the belay, one can scramble up to the summit ridge or move over and finish on Wired. To descend, get to the bolt-anchors of Forbidden Planet and rap down to the starting ledge, and then from the bolt anchors of Just Another Girl's Climb to the ground.

Better yet, do Forbidden Planet too- it's a good route and you are up there anyway.


Protection 

Thin gear behind, with a few [pieces] in behind some potentially breakable rock. Overall, the route is safe, but you can not count on every piece, so a lot of pumpy gear should be placed if you are not solid at the grade. Medium HB offsets were overhead crux pro for me.



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