Aspenleaf Dihedral
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
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FA: | Mike Brooks (free solo) |
Page Views: | 862 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Feb 27, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This climb is a flake and crack system in an open book dihedral. The line is attractive, but short and tweaky. The initial section of the route does indeed look like a 30' tall Aspen Leaf.
Aspenleaf Dihedral is directly above the route The Scared and the Profane. Few climbers would approach the route by this pitch, so consider getting there by going up and right of Blows Against the Empire (5.11) or Peanuts (5.9) or down and left of Just Another Girl's Climb (5.12) or Your Basic Lieback (5.6), or a scramble to the right of Your Basic Lieback (5.Easy).
Set a belay on the ledge from gear or the bolt anchors above Just Another Girl's Climb (up and right of Aspenleaf's start).
Place a few small pieces on the right side of the aspen leaf and step up off of the ledge into the slightly overhanging route. This is the first crux (balancy 5.10). Continue up and left, crossing the dihedral at the leaf's tip to flakes on the left. Place gear whenever possible, as there will be places where it is not so good. A fall should be plenty safe if this is considered. From the top of the leaf, climb easier rock (lower angle) up and left near a crack to reach a ledge with a tree and belay.
From the belay, one can scramble up to the summit ridge or move over and finish on Wired. To descend, get to the bolt-anchors of Forbidden Planet and rap down to the starting ledge, and then from the bolt anchors of Just Another Girl's Climb to the ground.
Better yet, do Forbidden Planet too - it's a good route and you are up there anyway.
Aspenleaf Dihedral is directly above the route The Scared and the Profane. Few climbers would approach the route by this pitch, so consider getting there by going up and right of Blows Against the Empire (5.11) or Peanuts (5.9) or down and left of Just Another Girl's Climb (5.12) or Your Basic Lieback (5.6), or a scramble to the right of Your Basic Lieback (5.Easy).
Set a belay on the ledge from gear or the bolt anchors above Just Another Girl's Climb (up and right of Aspenleaf's start).
Place a few small pieces on the right side of the aspen leaf and step up off of the ledge into the slightly overhanging route. This is the first crux (balancy 5.10). Continue up and left, crossing the dihedral at the leaf's tip to flakes on the left. Place gear whenever possible, as there will be places where it is not so good. A fall should be plenty safe if this is considered. From the top of the leaf, climb easier rock (lower angle) up and left near a crack to reach a ledge with a tree and belay.
From the belay, one can scramble up to the summit ridge or move over and finish on Wired. To descend, get to the bolt-anchors of Forbidden Planet and rap down to the starting ledge, and then from the bolt anchors of Just Another Girl's Climb to the ground.
Better yet, do Forbidden Planet too - it's a good route and you are up there anyway.
Photos
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