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Split Beaver
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asleep At The Wheel 
Heavenly Ladder 
Orifice Fish 
Salal Jam 
Split Beaver 

Asleep At The Wheel 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: D Jones, K Neubauer, 3/89
Season: Stays prety dry, Faces West
Page Views: 249
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 4, 2012
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Left crack - Salal Jam
Right crack - Asleep at the...
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Description 

This climb has been cleaned fairly recently and stays fairly dry even when other things are seeping. The climbing is mostly moderate and the protection fairly straight forward. Be mindful however, of the rope length when lowering with a line shorter than 70m.


Location 

This route starts near the low point of the Split Beaver formation, down at it's lower right end. The climb follows the crack system that ascends left of the blunt arete on a left-leaning crack system.


Protection 

A double set of cams and nuts and a some long slings will get you to a bolt and chain anchor that can be lowered off of with a 70M rope.



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By Mark van Eijk
Jan 22, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Long route, best to bring a 70m, you can do it in two raps with a shorter rope by using the intermediate anchor. First half was not that pleasant, rather shallow and flaring. After the ledge it is good fun; solid jamming in a variety of sizes. I'd strongly recommend linking salal jam into the second half for a higher-quality experience.