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This climb has been cleaned fairly recently and stays fairly dry even when other things are seeping. The climbing is mostly moderate and the protection fairly straight forward. Be mindful however, of the rope length when lowering with a line shorter than 70m.
This route starts near the low point of the Split Beaver formation, down at it's lower right end. The climb follows the crack system that ascends left of the blunt arete on a left-leaning crack system.
A double set of cams and nuts and a some long slings will get you to a bolt and chain anchor that can be lowered off of with a 70M rope.
|By Mark van Eijk|
Jan 22, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Long route, best to bring a 70m, you can do it in two raps with a shorter rope by using the intermediate anchor. First half was not that pleasant, rather shallow and flaring. After the ledge it is good fun; solid jamming in a variety of sizes. I'd strongly recommend linking salal jam into the second half for a higher-quality experience.