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Wizard Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
Asleep at the Wheel S 
Boschanova T 
Wizard, The T 

Asleep at the Wheel 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 209
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Oct 14, 2006

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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb and the moves are a lot better than they look and the rock quality is actually very good.


Location 

Climb the somewhat grungy looking wall with bolts hidden in the trees across the canyon from Aerial Anticipation.


Protection 

Bolts with good anchors. Easy to Top Rope.



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By Bad Bob
Oct 21, 2009

I think I remember doing this route in spring/summer of 1993 as the name sounds very familiar. If memory serves, it is almost directly across the river from the descent into the canyon and consists of 4-6 bolts...not my intent to provide beta, but to try and remember experiences there. I think it was installed around that time by climbers from Austin, of course the names escape me, but they were pretty excited about it and I may have had the second ascent. On the last clip before the anchors for the on-site, I blew the clip trying to reach through and fell upside down for maybe 20'. Left quite a rope burn/snake around my let as the rope wrapped around my leg.
I had been climbing for a couple of years at that point, but with little sport experience...looking back, I was probably lucky I didn't wack my head!
As far as the grade goes, I have a hard time believing this is .12a...I remember discussing with the FA party that it was .10+/11-.
Look forward to more comments on this; maybe someday I'll get back down there.
Bob

By Ryan A. Ray
From: Keller, TX
Jan 20, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Yeah, i dont feel this is 12a either. It is sustained 11 climbing for sure..but not 12a

By steven charles
Mar 7, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

5 bolts on this one.

anyone know about the crack to the right of it, it goes on gear at about 10a or so, i felt like it was a bit spicy.