Asleep at the Wheel 5.12a
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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This climb and the moves are a lot better than they look and the rock quality is actually very good.
Location Climb the somewhat grungy looking wall with bolts hidden in the trees across the canyon from Aerial Anticipation.
Protection Bolts with good anchors. Easy to Top Rope.
| Comments on Asleep at the Wheel |
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By Bad Bob
Oct 21, 2009
| I think I remember doing this route in spring/summer of 1993 as the name sounds very familiar. If memory serves, it is almost directly across the river from the descent into the canyon and consists of 4-6 bolts...not my intent to provide beta, but to try and remember experiences there. I think it was installed around that time by climbers from Austin, of course the names escape me, but they were pretty excited about it and I may have had the second ascent. On the last clip before the anchors for the on-site, I blew the clip trying to reach through and fell upside down for maybe 20'. Left quite a rope burn/snake around my let as the rope wrapped around my leg.
I had been climbing for a couple of years at that point, but with little sport experience...looking back, I was probably lucky I didn't wack my head!
As far as the grade goes, I have a hard time believing this is .12a...I remember discussing with the FA party that it was .10+/11-.
Look forward to more comments on this; maybe someday I'll get back down there.
Bob |
By Ryan A. Ray
From: Keller, TX
Jan 20, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b PG13
| Yeah, i dont feel this is 12a either. It is sustained 11 climbing for sure..but not 12a |
By steven charles
Mar 7, 2011
rating: 5.12a
| 5 bolts on this one.
anyone know about the crack to the right of it, it goes on gear at about 10a or so, i felt like it was a bit spicy. |
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