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Wizard Wall
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Asleep at the Wheel S 
Boschanova T 
Wizard, The T 

Asleep at the Wheel 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 286
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Oct 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>


This climb and the moves are a lot better than they look and the rock quality is actually very good.


Climb the somewhat grungy looking wall with bolts hidden in the trees across the canyon from Aerial Anticipation.


5 Bolts with good anchors. Easy to Top Rope.

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By Bad Bob
Oct 21, 2009

I think I remember doing this route in spring/summer of 1993 as the name sounds very familiar. If memory serves, it is almost directly across the river from the descent into the canyon and consists of 4-6 bolts...not my intent to provide beta, but to try and remember experiences there. I think it was installed around that time by climbers from Austin, of course the names escape me, but they were pretty excited about it and I may have had the second ascent. On the last clip before the anchors for the on-site, I blew the clip trying to reach through and fell upside down for maybe 20'. Left quite a rope burn/snake around my let as the rope wrapped around my leg.
I had been climbing for a couple of years at that point, but with little sport experience...looking back, I was probably lucky I didn't wack my head!
As far as the grade goes, I have a hard time believing this is .12a...I remember discussing with the FA party that it was .10+/11-.
Look forward to more comments on this; maybe someday I'll get back down there.
By Ryan A. Ray
From: Weatherford, TX
Jan 20, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Yeah, i dont feel this is 12a either. It is sustained 11 climbing for sure..but not 12a
By steven charles
Mar 7, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

5 bolts on this one.

anyone know about the crack to the right of it, it goes on gear at about 10a or so, i felt like it was a bit spicy.
By Daniel S
From: Oklahoma City
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

After climbing Arial Anticipation, League of Doom/Space, and Asleep at the wheel in the same day, I would rate the climb a 12a as it is a bit harder to link up into a flawless red point as the other aforementioned climbs rated 11c. Additionally, I felt the moves and crimps to be equal to those found on Rap Bolter but non as difficult as the crux on whipping post. As such, I feel 12a is an appropriate ratting for the climb.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Sep 9, 2015

I like to point out... Dr. Coolhead was rated 10a by the Lohn guidebook. Today its easily a 10c/d, I think Tony put it at 10d. I just see rating fluctuate so much, I try to not get wrapped up in all of it, plus some routes simply have secret beta that can unlock the easier moves. All told, great feedback. I enjoy seeing what others think and exactly why.

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