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Ask a noob!

Original Post
Matthew McMillan · · Orange, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 45

You know when you and you're buddies see some kooks at the crag doing something dangerous or unnecessarily laborious and time-consuming, and you laugh to each other and say, "Look at these noobs, what the hell are they doing? I wonder where they got the idea that they're supposed to [insert stupid thing here]." Well I overheard you. Now's your chance. Ask away, I won't get offended.

And I'll try to provide some insight that should improve communication between noobs and the veterans we depend on, so that we might learn faster and thus climb safer.

I just jumped on this already crowding bandwagon about 7 months ago. I am the first to question whether I may be running way too fast with this sport. So, I'm a good noob to ask because there's no excessive pride here. I'm not gonna get defensive or argue with anyone. In other words: Guideline #1 does not really apply here - go ahead and be a jerk. I will interpret your rage for my noobie compadres.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

There was a running thread on rc.com called "Ask The Noob" at one time I think. The author was not an actual noob, however, but would reply as a noob perhaps would and often for humorous effect.

Zach Kling · · Indianapolis, Indiana · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 40

I can't believe it took this long for someone to rip off the most classic rc.com thread ever. You can't hold a candle to the real noob!

Stich beat me to it.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Where did you learn to build that so-called "anchor"?

Who taught you how to belay?

What makes you think it's OK to bring music to the crag and make everyone else hear it?

Why is all that shit dangling off your pack, instead of inside where it belongs?

That should get you started.

Also, why are you toproping through those rap rings?

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

We all need some 'noob advice to lighten up our days, don't we?

Tom-onator · · trollfreesociety · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 790

(Ahem)- it's "nOOb"

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
Tom-o Sapien wrote:(Ahem)- it's "nOOb "
We stand corrected....the official and Wikipedia spelling certainly must be n00b,,,ooops, I used zeros instead of 'O's. But really,what is the difference, eh?
Chris Wenker · · Santa Fe · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,887

Yup, before continuing on in this thread, one should go read the entire rc.com N00B thread first, from beginning to end. There is very little ground left untilled.

//Do these overalls make me look fat?

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

What is the advantage of top roping off a pulley ?

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

How much time do you save by putting your climbing shoes and harness on before leaving the car?

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
Cor wrote:What is the advantage of top roping off a pulley ?
Ans: faster decents, quicker change over to next climber on toprope who is clipping in to a carabiner on belay loop instead of a tie in,,,= less wasted time, hog the route from lead climbers, more climbing fun for all!!
Mark Wilson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

Does that daisy chain strung through your crotch from rear gear loop to front hurt your lady/man parts?

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
Cor wrote:What is the advantage of top roping off a pulley ?
I'm glad you asked this question. You save wear and tear on your carabiners since your pulley is now being worn. But then, eventually your pulley will need replacement.

[pro tip: use beefy quicklinks to toprope through and replace when worn.]

You can also toprope through clean beef femurs. Just thread some 8mm cord through the cut bone and you are good to go.
Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Good points! And should I be belaying with a Stich plate?
(I wonder how many people here actually remember these!!)

BBQ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 554

The only "Noob Thing" that drives me up the wall is when I see new climbers hiking around a sport climbing area in their climbing shoes while their approach shoes are strapped to the outside of their back packs. I see noobs belaying in their climbing shoes, getting them dirty, and then when I see them slipping off the climbs I just about lose it, "Take your shoes off between climbs! You don't need to wear them all day long! What is wrong with you people? Don't your feet hurt?" Other than that I am more than happy to give friendly advice about beta and safety when asked.

Matthew McMillan · · Orange, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 45

Haha wow I have to say I did not expect that many responses. I'm not sure I have time to respond to all of 'em, but I'll try to address some of the funnier ones and the ones that made me question what I do when I climb.

Stitch - I'm gonna check out that thread cuz it sounds like a funnier idea than mine. I'm really going for educational value here, I just don't mind being poked fun at. After I posted I had the realization that someone's probably done this before, but I'm still sticking with it as long as it holds my interest or teaches me something.

Frank PS - You gotta be more specific. I get it, you're just venting. But I'll try to respond a little. There's a lot of different people teaching noobs a lot of different things. I'd wager that very little of the instruction is wrong or dangerous, but us noobs tend to get so excited to climb that we don't ensure we understood exactly what was taught. I realized this phenomenon and have been supplementing what I learn from various veterans with a book called "Freedom of the Hills" which I understand is very trusted. I recommend that when you see someone doing something wrong, try to find a nice, humble way to let them know. Otherwise they'll assume you're just being arrogant, and the message is lost. I would also try to suggest a reputable book to any noob you have the chance to really talk to. Of course, if something is about to go catastrophically wrong, then manners go out the door and you yell at them, I think. That's what I would want you to do if I was the noob in those situations. As far as music, I hate this too, but I have to say the only two groups I've seen do this were both climbing for over a decade. One was from South America. I don't know. One of the first things I was told was don't bring music. All my noob and veteran friends know this. Top Roping off of Rap Rings: I was taught not to do it. I have a buddy who is not comfortable rapping so he lowers off the rap rings when he cleans after I lead, but he doesn't top rope off them. I saw a group with a few years experience top rope off of fixed biners one time because of a mix up in communication. The lead climber thought his partner was not going to climb the route when he was done, so he put his rope through the fixed biners and lowered and cleaned. The partner actually did want to climb, but he knew he couldn't lead it. So he climbed with the rope through the fixed biners. They should not have done that, right? They think "oh it's just once", but if enough people think that then the fixed biners get worn out, right?

Woodchuck ATC - happy to bring some comic relief!

Cor - I've never seen anyone top rope off a pulley outside the gym, but I've been wondering the same. But homeboy's answer makes sense. Although it seems mean to hog routes like that.

MJMobes - I don't put my climbing shoes on ahead of time and I can't imagine that would be comfortable on any kind of hike. But I do put my harness on. I do it so that I have enough space in my bag for other stuff. I also put on my helmet. I know I look like a kook, but I'd rather spend my bucks on gear rather than a new bag. Come to think of it, one of my veteran friends who's been climbing for 2 decades does this too. I don't know why he does it though. I don't think it is a time saving thing. Is it particularly bad to put on the harness ahead of time for any reason? What about putting on a lot of your gear, if its an easy hike in?

asdrubal - HAHA! Did you look at my pictures before posting that? I definitely do this (safety anchor sling thing through the legs). Again it comes down to different veterans who teach different things. I was told to do this by a veteran climber. He suggested it actually. To keep it out of the way of my quick draws. I actually don't do it anymore, at least not while I'm actually climbing. I realized it can easily catch on a protrusion as you are climbing up and cause an unexpected fall. I find other places to attach it. What do you suggest?

I think the lesson I've learned here so far, or relearned, is that there are many different right ways and a lot of wrong ways to execute the many nuances of climbing. Because of this it is a good idea to have solid base of information you can consult which comes from a reputable source - a trusted book usually.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
Cor wrote:Good points! And should I be belaying with a Stich plate? (I wonder how many people here actually remember these!!)
HEY!!,,,Old guy here,,,the Sticht plate still lives on, and the spring on it gives a dynamic belay,,it was way ahead of it's time and took decades before the ATC came around to replace it,,,even though devices use same method as Sticht plate. I will never give mine up,,they stay active when needed...nOOb or not, it's a real piece of tested gear.
Derrick Peppers · · Terrebonne, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 1,296

Matthew, Keep up the good work. What you are doing is something I respect. Asking questions, answering them, being open minded. Good sound judgment and decision making are your most importaint tools you will carry with you. Be honest with yourself and leave the ego at home. I would let you belay me any day of the week.

Cheers,

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Derrick Peppers wrote:Matthew, Keep up the good work. What you are doing is something I respect. Asking questions, answering them, being open minded. Good sound judgment and decision making are your most importaint tools you will carry with you. Be honest with yourself and leave the ego at home. I would let you belay me any day of the week. Cheers,
yep X 2 (and dont wear out the nylon on your harness by hiking in it, it will clip to the back of your pack if you have no room)
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
Cor wrote:Good points! And should I be belaying with a Stich plate? (I wonder how many people here actually remember these!!)
You may be thinking of a Sticht plate. A "Stich Plate" is a plate of fried shrimp with red beans and rice and a beer.

Matthew McMillan wrote:Stitch - I'm gonna check out that thread cuz it sounds like a funnier idea than mine.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=971419
Capt. Impatient · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Ok? What pulleys are you guys using for top roping. Took a quick look at Petzl's site and the only one worth carrying only has a 8KN rating. and please don't give me the "you can't generate that much force on a top rope" argument I know it would be hard to do but top rope falls can generate quite a bit of force. rockandice.com/lates-news/t… If you are doing it to save carabiners from wear that is silly to me. You can spend the same on two carabiners that you would spend on one pulley. *** Also, I am not trying to get into a "pissing match" here I am just trying to gather information. ***

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
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