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Asian School Girls 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jay Shultis, Alexandra Higgins, Mark Rineer
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 349
Submitted By: Jay Shultis on Jan 26, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Sarah Crosier on Asian School Girls, Sonia Shultis...

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Description 

Leading this route is a bit heady out the gate but the gear gets better as you go. Climb a 30' slabby buttress up it's left side to a 20' face above. Exit into a narrow gully to the right of a small cherry tree growing out of the rock. This will keep you out of the briars for the topout. Belay and rappel from a huge tree on the right side of the gully. Originally covered in rock tripe, Mark Rineer and I cleaned this in 2003 thinking it would probably need a couple bolts, it appears to be staying fairly clean and climbs cleanly on gear. Crux mantle to get on the route and one tricky section of face climbing off the high ledge near the finish.

Location 

Located 20' left of Fat City on a 15' wide buttress. 20' R of trick or Treat dihedral corner crack.

Protection 

Lots of interesting gear, but it is all small. I would reccomend double of smaller sizes for a ground up on-sight. I used a mix of small BD C4's & X4's (all 0.5 or smaller) as well as a couple decent ball nuts for the topout after the crux. A 0.1 X4 or small C3's would work for the finish if you do not have ball-nuts. There is a marginal Blue X4 placement in a shallow pod 10' up on the route, after that you can double up on 0.2 cams in the overlap that is in the middle of the slab. This section is not hard but could be the mental crux due to blind/marginal placements.


Photos of Asian School Girls Slideshow Add Photo
Sonia Shultis on the First crux, start of Asian Sc...
Sonia Shultis on the First crux, start of Asian Sc...

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By AndyPetersen
From: Blacksburg, VA
Apr 7, 2014

The "heinous amount of briars at the top-out" has been cut down.
By Jay Shultis
Administrator
From: Blacksburg VA
Apr 8, 2014

Awesome!!! Let's see how long that lasts now that spring is coming! Glad to hear someone is checking this nice little line out.