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Ashima, impressions?
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By pico
From Burnaby, BC
Nov 29, 2012
Montagne d'Argent

General opinions as to this little one's prowess via our passion, feeling a blow below the belt? Encouraging? Scared to shits of the next generation? Opinions ;Fire away!


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 29, 2012
El Chorro

Definitely not feeling a low blow. I get crushed by teenage girls at the climbing gym all the time.

I think the most amazing part is that she is so young yet has the mental ability and the physical coordination to climb hard. Her focus and determination are not normal for a kid her age. When i was 11 I was still having a hard time making it through an hour long soccer game without losing focus and getting in a fight.

She appears to be growing slowly, which is good for her climbing. If ahe ever has a big growth spurt it will be hard for her to continue at this level. She'd likely fall back a few grades or more and have to learn how to climb again. I remember growing more than six inches one year and my feet got like three sizes bigger. I was so clumsy - I could barely run.

I think we've all learned a thing or two from The young girls of the 90's who dominated until they got burnt out. It seems like Ashima has good people around her who support her and know when to push, but also when to just have fun.

Then again, what do I know. I'm just some dude who's seen videos of her and her friends climbing.


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By bearbreeder
Nov 29, 2012

she likely climbs harder than anyone here ever will ... and thats a good thing ;)


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Nov 29, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

My impression of Ashima: Young, strong, Asian, positive.

My impression of Obe Carrion: Earl Woods.


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By freezeus
From Pittsfield, VT
Nov 29, 2012

My impression is that she is a great kid..I've seen her at numerous comps in ISO and out on the floor and she is positive, fun and focused. Her parents seem great...supportive and encouraging without pushing her. Her finger strength is amazing and she reads climbs quickly and accurately. My daughter is one year older, went through a growth spurt last year and was frustrated as she slid back a grade two now this year is back up beyond where she was last year.

My son grew 6 inches last year and his finger strength did not catch up with the growth until this fall.

As long as Ashima continues to work with fun positive climbers she will continue to improve...with that finger strength she'll be scary once she grows a few inches!


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By A.Javi.Gecko
From San Diego, CA
Nov 29, 2012
V3, Castle Hill, NZ

I just like watching people send v-hard without dropping the F bomb every half-move. Quite inspiring to see that the "innocence of children" seems a peaceful, lightheartedness in Ashima. Plus she has mad passion and drive for an 11 year old!


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By Forestvonsinkafinger
From Iowa
Nov 29, 2012

Ashima = ちょ すごい


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By Alex Whitman
Nov 29, 2012
Luxury Liner, Indian Creek

I really like that she has erased ego from climbing.

You think you're hard? You think you're special? You can onsight my project?

An 11 year old girl climbs harder than you.


But of course she can't hold a flame to what I do.
As long as she stays out of trad climbing...


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Nov 29, 2012

It's been done before, just not quite at her level. Cicada Jenerik climbed V10 at age 10 but grew up a bit and has kinda plateaued. Tori Allen climbed really hard and burned out. Daniel woods was climbing .14s at age 14 and has only gotten better.

i think growth spurts hurt the girls more since they get used to such a light weight and then fill out a bit. The girls who don't as much, excel.. ie Alex Johnson, Sasha, Alex puccio. still real skinny but strong. guys fill out too but it is more muscle growth than anything.

remember.. your trad project is their warm up :)


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By mozeman
Nov 29, 2012

At least when ashima cries due to not being able to send it's because she is still very young.

When Adam Ondra does it is quite pathetic for an 18 year old. Come on man! I get that you are one of the worlds strongest climbers and do not often fail when clmbing at that you are very passionate but you are 18 years old. Grown men don't do that kinda stuff


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By mozeman
Nov 29, 2012

Jake D. wrote:
It's been done before, just not quite at her level. Cicada Jenerik climbed V10 at age 10 but grew up a bit and has kinda plateaued. Tori Allen climbed really hard and burned out. Daniel woods was climbing .14s at age 14 and has only gotten better. i think growth spurts hurt the girls more since they get used to such a light weight and then fill out a bit. The girls who don't as much, excel.. ie Alex Johnson, Sasha, Alex puccio. still real skinny but strong. guys fill out too but it is more muscle growth than anything. remember.. your trad project is their warm up :)


Sasha has consistently improved her climbing abilities while LOSING weight. Not to mention many other female climbers like Daila, the Rabatous (spelling?) and many others. I agree with you that female BOULDERERS like the Alex's you mentioned may take longer to develop but in sport climbing it is a completely different story.


And as far as more muscle growth......Adam Ondra....shall I say more?


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Nov 29, 2012

mozeman wrote:
Sasha has consistently improved her climbing abilities while LOSING weight. Not to mention many other female climbers like Daila, the Rabatous (spelling?) and many others. I agree with you that female BOULDERERS like the Alex's you mentioned may take longer to develop but in sport climbing it is a completely different story. And as far as more muscle growth......Adam Ondra....shall I say more?


I was saying that Sasha and Alex(s) are lighter but still strong. they didn't get hit with the weight gain of puberty as hard as others.. it depends on your genes i suppose. Girls that were at the top when they were younger tapered off some.

not sure where i said anything between bouldering and sport climbing

there are exceptions. Dave graham and Adam Ondra definitely climb as hard but differently than Daniel woods and Sharma.


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By reboot
From Westminster, CO
Nov 29, 2012

Let's make sure we are talking about the right Alex here. There's nothing thin or light about Alex Puccio, in fact, she puts most dudes in shame:


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Nov 29, 2012

She has a gymnast build. she's only 5'2 so she is till tiny even though she is muscular.

i duno


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By Superclimber
Nov 29, 2012

Ryan Williams wrote:
Definitely not feeling a low blow. I get crushed by teenage girls at the climbing gym all the time.

Hahahahaahahahaha! Yeah, me too. Ya just gotta accept it I guess.

But seriously, I just watched the New York Times video and that girl is awesome. She looks like she's having a blast. Good for her.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 29, 2012
El Chorro

Jake D. wrote:
She has a gymnast build. she's only 5'2 so she is till tiny even though she is muscular. i duno


Has anyone here actually stood next to Alex Puccio? She is a beast. And I used to hang with the gymnasts in university. She puts them (and me) to shame. Her forearms are the size of my biceps - literally. And her deltoids are massive. And she seemed a lot taller than 5'2".

She campused the problem I'd been working on for days. I believe it was the first route she touched that day.


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By mozeman
Nov 29, 2012

Jake D. wrote:
I was saying that Sasha and Alex(s) are lighter but still strong. they didn't get hit with the weight gain of puberty as hard as others.. it depends on your genes i suppose. Girls that were at the top when they were younger tapered off some. not sure where i said anything between bouldering and sport climbing there are exceptions. Dave graham and Adam Ondra definitely climb as hard but differently than Daniel woods and Sharma.


I just brought up the sport vs. bouldering because i feel as if it effects boulderers more so than sport climbing when talking about girl climbers.

female climbers that can climb, lets say 5.14, are much more of an occurrence than women who can climb, lets say V13 or V14.


but yes, I think that dave graham, ondra, patxi show that muscle has nothing to do with climbing strong. it seems for every sharma, dwoods, and ramon julian there is a a lanky ass skinny crusher


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By Lanky
From Portland, ME
Nov 29, 2012

mozeman wrote:
At least when ashima cries due to not being able to send it's because she is still very young. When Adam Ondra does it is quite pathetic for an 18 year old. Come on man! I get that you are one of the worlds strongest climbers and do not often fail when clmbing at that you are very passionate but you are 18 years old. Grown men don't do that kinda stuff

Adam Ondra does not care about your concept of manhood.


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By Charles Kinbote
From Brooklyn, NY
Nov 29, 2012
On Waimea, 5.10d

I see her in the gym fairly often and have seen her on the rocks a couple of times. What's most impressive to me is her movement/technical skill, which is very advanced and sophisticated for her age. All the little shits at the gym can hang on minuscule holds, and that's nothing new or particularly impressive, considering their tiny fingers and light little bodies.

All the debate arises when people try to evaluate the quality or importance of her ascents. That's a harder issue to address. I think the V grade system breaks down for climbers with physical characteristics way out on either end of the bell curve. The kids will generally excel on problems with tiny but closely spaced holds, and struggle on problems with mandatory long reaches, wide pinches or slopers.

In any case, she's a damn good young climber and seems to be enjoying herself. She's traveling to wonderful places and having good clean fun climbing rocks. Whether she'll burn out and quit climbing or become the next Adam Ondra is anyone's guess.


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By frankstoneline
Nov 29, 2012

Lanky wrote:
Adam Ondra does not care about your concept of manhood.


Best of this thread.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Nov 29, 2012
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

She seems like she would be a lot nicer to spot than some of my bouldering buddies. She wouldn't flatten you.


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By Caprinae monkey
Mar 6, 2013

Yeah, but she would probably not be a great belayer for most of you...


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By William Domhart
From Ventucky, CA
Mar 6, 2013
Traverse by HWY 41 Cave

Haters gonna hate...Don't know her, can't pass judgement. I know plenty of climbers that crush way harder than I. The ones I like are chill (younger or older) and are supportive even if you don't climb at their grade. The ones I don't like climbing with act like d-bags...I've me em' on both ends of the crushing scale, young or old...Can't hate on someone just because they crush harder than you do...


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By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Mar 6, 2013

I've had the pleasure of meeting Ashima and watching her climb at the gym because the same gym hosts divisionals for the American Boulder Series and of course she attends because she's the biggest and best, and there aren't many girls competing at similar difficulty until Nationals due to being in different Divisions for USA Climbing.
It's occasionally quite boring to see her climb indoors, because she rarely does not flash a problem while competing.

It was quite humbling to talk to her and see her climb
It's as if the crowds and cameras don't exist most of the time, at least from what Iv'e seen, and shes SUPER quiet
One of the judges tried to talk to her after she flashed her problem (shocker) and asked her where she planned on climbing next, and she's extremely soft spoken and honestly pretty chill, surprising compared to most rambunctious 11 year olds
And like stated above she's extremely motivated, both self and by her coaches and parents, all things considered its pretty fantastic.

My favorite thing is that her and one of the girls on our team at the gym have essentially become friends. Being in the same category she was of course extremely intimidated by Ashima and its amazing that now theyll take videos for each other at comps and I know a lot of little girls in her category and younger, especially local, really feed off her energy and she's really inspiring to the younger upcoming generation of climbers, they get to see someone their age sending really hard and can really push themselves to become better using her, someone very similar to them to feed off and get inspired.

I can't wait to see her in a few years, especially outside & on rope, because she's going to be amazing to watch, I really want to see her get an FA, I feel like we won't see her peak until she finds a climb that fits her style that she puts the FA on.

Edited...


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By Alex McIntyre
From Tucson, AZ
Mar 7, 2013

Eddie2170 wrote:
I've had the pleasure of meeting Ashima and watching her climb at the gym because the same gym hosts divisionals for the American Boulder Series and of course she attends because she's the biggest and best, and her only true competition is Brooke Rabatou but they don't compete until Nationals due to being in different Divisions for USA Climbing It was quite humbling to talk to her and see her climb It's as if the crowds and cameras don't exist most of the time, at least from what Iv'e seen, and shes SUPER quiet One of the judges tried to talk to her after she flashed her problem (shocker) and asked her where she planned on climbing next, and she's extremely soft spoken and honestly pretty chill, surprising compared to most rambunctious 11 year olds And like stated above she's extremely motivated, both self and by her coaches and parents, all things considered its pretty fantastic. My favorite thing is that her and one of the girls on our team at the gym have essentially become friends. Being in the same category she was of course extremely intimidated by Ashima and its amazing that now theyll take videos for each other at comps and I know a lot of little girls in her category and younger, especially local, really feed off her energy and she's really inspiring to the younger upcoming generation of climbers, they get to see someone their age sending really hard and can really push themselves to become better using her, someone very similar to them to feed off and get inspired. I can't wait to see her in a few years, especially outside & on rope, because she's going to be amazing to watch, I really want to see her get an FA, I feel like we won't see her peak until she finds a climb that fits her style that she puts the FA on.

It's really obnoxious to state her only competition is such-and-such. You don't know the entire field of young girls, nor will you ever know all young girls that climb, especially ones that might choose to not compete.


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By Greg Springer
From Minneapolis
Mar 7, 2013
Friends big puppy

A.Javi.Gecko wrote:
I just like watching people send v-hard without dropping the F bomb every half-move. Quite inspiring to see that the "innocence of children" seems a peaceful, lightheartedness in Ashima. Plus she has mad passion and drive for an 11 year old!



yeah, i think a lot of climbers can learn from her in that regard (myself included obviously).


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