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Charles delivers on another heads up lead.
Fine, continuous climbing characterizes this quality line, and although the protection is tricky, the gear is adequate. Start below the obvious clean left-facing corner found 25 feet down and right of Valhalla Direct. Although both pitches have been lead as one (with some run-outs and thoughtful runnering), most will want to stop and belay due to rope-drag. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 3 out of 3 stars.)
Pitch 1 – Scramble up the slab till a small roof is encountered. Pull up into the prominent dihedral and engage continuous moves that finally end at a small stance. The remainder of the corner above is 5.10 (bearing 1 pin), and is part of route # 25. Asgard moves out to the right and joins the same crack system as the top of the original line of Tyr. Either continue up the face to the old gear belay found left of the corner at the base of the second pitch, or better yet, step left about 10 feet lower on the obvious ledge system and belay at the anchors for Loki. (Do not belay at the anchors located out right, as they are for routes #26 and 27, and this location adds unnecessary rope-drag.) 5.10-, pro to 3½”, 82 feet.
Pitch 2 – From either belay, climb up to the prominent left-facing corner above which is capped by a small roof. Adequate protection is available in this corner, but care needs to be taken to avoid placing gear behind some fragile features. It is highly recommended for the leader to thoughtfully check all placements before committing to subsequent moves. At the end of the corner move out right to a bolt (which replaced an old, short knifeblade piton) and continue up and right to the easy weakness. A few more moves lead to an easy traverse back left to the anchors. A nicer finish moves back left after the bolt and passes two more bolts (Loki finish, 5.10-) to the anchors. 5.9+/5.10-,
1 bolt, pro to 2½”, 55 feet.
Pro to 3.5".
See Squeezing the Lemmon. (Center of the wall, where the rock changes color from a lighter color to a darker grey/green color.)
The move from the corner roof to upper face. Pitc...