Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Ascending & cleaning slanted terrain
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Oct 18, 2010
hey everyone,

looking for some tips on cleaning terrain where a lower-out may not be an option; for example, a traversing or leaning cam hook section that has no fixed piece before the section to sling for a lower-out.

all i can come up with is: second re-leads the hook section, nails and slings his own pin, leaves a cam/nut behind with a sling, or takes a whipper.

any advice?
Spyder
Joined Oct 15, 2010
5 points
Oct 18, 2010
There are routes where the cleaner needs a set of hooks, too.
It's not that uncommon to "relead" some moves while cleaning, almost always through roofs or traverses.

On the hook or book traverse on sod you just clip the biners in place and pull the rope after leading it.
Seconding it would be more dangerous than leading imo.
marde
From Germany
Joined Mar 18, 2008
4 points
Oct 20, 2010
Take the swing if you can. It's quicker... Otherwise you re lead it...

I just had to take a big swing cause about 25' of pro popped out while I was cleaning.


Zac
Caz
Joined Nov 29, 2007
22 points
Oct 21, 2010
P6 Bivy during the massive Rim Fire.
I like to bring a few extra hooks on routes with wandering pitches.

I keep a thin 5 mil cord, roughly 30 feet long with me also.

Attach cord to hook, place hook, weight hook, lower out using the cord.

Done it tons of times, no need to re-lead the pitch (provided you can get a hook on)

removing takes a few flicks of the rope, so don't bury the hook...

Cam hooks do not work very well in this application in my experience.

Mucci
mucci
From sf ca
Joined Jan 29, 2007
483 points
Oct 22, 2010
Big air on the first solo of the sugar cookie: Lat...
learn how to duecy and do it off of hooks. i wouldn't do the uncontrolled swing, seems like a quick way to get the chop. Kristoffer
Joined Feb 2, 2006
46 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.  
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!