Ascender Usage Question
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This may sound like a total newb question, but bear with me. I've done absolutely zero aid climbing, and I've never had to use an ascender otherwise. |
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You need two to climb. Otherwise you are tying a foot step in the rope each time you want to go higher, which is an emergency technique only. |
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Of course this could be done. I don't think it is a particularly good idea, but it is possible, and it has been done many times, usually as part of a more improvised scenario rather than a pre-planned one. There are definitely some considerations. One thing to remember is that the belayer will be holding the rope while the second is jugging. That means you will be holding the entire weight of the second with a belay device while the second jugs the line. Usually when climbers intend to jug, the line is fixed; ie the rope is tied to the anchor and not being held by a belayer. If not done correctly, it can be quite uncomfortable to have to hold the full weight of the climber for the duration of the jugging. Furthermore, in multi-pitch climbs it is a real possibility that you will not be aware when the switch has occured (free to jugging) due to poor communication. |
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I wouldn't go up on a route that I didn't think my partner could climb, its a bad idea and asking for trouble. If you absoultly have to do these shenannagins, theres lots of ways to do it. I would go with two ascenders or use one ascender with a grigri. She will also need a way to attatch her feet, with either a sling or an aider(edit-or bites in the rope). |
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Better get her a second ascending device of some sort to retain marital bliss. Keep in mind that she'll have to be 'secure' while removing ascenders from the rope and while you pull up the slack. Suggest some practice before going 'live'. |
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She also needs her ascending system slings worked out and settled and practiced climbing with prior to setting out on the route. It is horrible to be jugging up a rope with a system that is not dialed in for you and will tire her out and suck very quickly. I would recommend you set up a Frog system for her and tell her she always needs two points of attachment to the rope. |
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If you need to get her over some cruxes than you need to rig a haul. With an auto block device this is relatively easy because you have built in progress capture. If you have to do this alot you are going to hate your day. Just don't take it out on your wife. |
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Check out page 17 in this: |
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She could prolly get by with a grigri and a ropeman if it's just a few small sections. |
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Yeah, I was thinking of a 3:1 like this: youtube.com/watch?v=wDyMRK_… |
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A simple setup would be: |
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alexdavis wrote: How much more efficient would a pulley, rather than a biner, attached to the klemheist be? Would it be a noticeable difference?Basically a z pulley system. You 2 need to get out and try this before you have to. You both need to know what to expect. I had one F'ed up day doing this for a friends girlfriend. I will never be pressured in that situation again. She didn't help, I dragged her ass up like 30 Meters, didn't use gloves ( which I had on my harness ). My hands were holding so tight that I didn't feel the blisters developing all over my fingers. That was day 1 of my climbing trip. My setup was an autoblock belay device and then an ascender to pull the load strand. A pully on both points would have definitely helped. You have got to post back on how this goes for you. If you practice I think it could actually turn out well. |
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Probably better to teach her how to French-free, and leave some nice gear for her at the cruxes. |
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Just curious what routes you're thinking of... I think that info would add greatly to the discussion! |
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The Nose. |
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alexdavis wrote:This may sound like a total newb question, but bear with me. I've done absolutely zero aid climbing, and I've never had to use an ascender otherwise. alexdavis wrote:The Nose.Wait you haven't done ANY aid and you want to do The Nose?.... |
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Yeah I heard its 5.9 and I can lead 10a sport so I figure we'll be fine. |
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Hey Price - the guy said he was a N00b - doesn't sound to me like anyone is trolling....why be such a jerk? You guys think everyone on here has nothing better to do then Troll all day long? |
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as far as efficiency goes with a pulley vs carabiner on a z drag, you'll lose around 40% efficiency without a pulley according to jared ogden in his big wall book. it feels it too, amazing what a little micro rescue pulley can do to make things move smoother... |
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Michael Urban wrote: Hey Price - the guy said he was a N00b - doesn't sound to me like anyone is trolling....why be such a jerk? You guys think everyone on here has nothing better to do then Troll all day long? You're seeting an negative example of climbers ettique.... Remember - we ALL started somewhere....remember the saying "There is now such thing as a stupid question."Yeah, Price. My above comment about the Nose and 10a sport was a troll. See the difference? |
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You'll be fine! The Euros do it all the time. If I had a nickel for every time I saw a Euro dude up there working on the Freerider with his ladyfriend dutifully jugging her way up behind him.... alexdavis wrote: the noseThat is pretty funny! I did have a friend who brought his wife to the valley, showed her how to jug off a tree in the Meadow one day and jumped on the Zodiac the next! They sent in fine style, 3 days if I recall... |