This is an interesting three pitch route located on the left side of The Fortress formation. The line is shown well on The Fortress Left Topo in Squeezing II. We used a 60 m rope for this climb.
Pitch 1: Climb up through corners off the deck and up to a grungy roof. Work left along this roof until you can pull onto the face. This pitch used only a fraction of our total 200 ft rope length. You'll reach a belay station for a double bolt belay stance.
Pitch 2: Easily the best pitch on the route. Work up the steep crystal face and follow the bolt line along a fun right traverse to a double bolt belay.
Pitch 3: Drifts to the right along easier terrain until the bolt line eventually disappears. From this point, there is only one more bolt until the anchors appear near the top of the formation. The bolt is not visible for some distance, so you must work up along the most obvious route and trust that the bolt will appear. The runouts approach 30+ feet, but they are all on 5.6 or easier face. A light set of pro and several slings to tie off small horns might make the leader feel better.
Walk off the formation using same route discussed in the thread for Steel Crazy. Rappelling back down to the base of the cliff would be especially unpleasant for this route and is not recommended.
Located on the left side of the fortress formation. The obvious bolted line that starts under a roof and to the left of Steel Crazy.
Bolts; well protected on pitches #1 and #2. Long runouts on easy terrain for pitch #3. Consider bringing a small set of nuts/cams and slings to tie off small horns. All pitches end in double bolts/chains.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Aug 5, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Some long run outs on easy ground. The traverse on the second pitch and the run outs on the third pitch can be pretty well protected with shoulder length slings on plates and chickenheads. The first pitch is fun but a little funky and the second pitch is really good.
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 26, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
I definitely recommend bringing slings, nuts, and a couple of cams to .75. While all the hard climbing is bolt protected, the significant runouts can be alleviated with gear.
P1: 80ft (Bolts, Chains)
P2: 140ft (Bolts, Slings, Chains)
P3: 180ft (Bolts, Gear, Chains)
4th/5th class to summit: 130ft
Pitch 1 was my favorite as the opening moves were wild and pretty unique.