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 ADVANCED
Ginger's Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
As the Wind Blows T 
Caterpillar, The T 
Chocolate Decadence T 
Ginger's Crack T 
Gun for the Sun T 
Guns for Nuns TR 
Mary Ann or Ginger? TR 
Through the Looking Glass T 

As the Wind Blows 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 904
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Nov 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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cool line

Description 

Corner crack, somewhat flared and mealy rock. A bit spicy and listed in the guide as a 5.7. Would not be a route for a fledgling 5.7 leader.

Location 

Obvious left-facing corner to the right of the main Ginger's Face.

Protection 

Standard rack. Old 1/4" bolt/Leeper hanger mid way up route (good candidate for replacement or removal). Top out then down climb horizontal crack to sling anchor on Through the Looking Glass.


Photos of As the Wind Blows Slideshow Add Photo
Wide angle of route
Wide angle of route
As the Wind Blows
BETA PHOTO: As the Wind Blows
View from the base.
BETA PHOTO: View from the base.
Starting the fun hand crack section.
Starting the fun hand crack section.
The approach to Gilligan's Island
The approach to Gilligan's Island

Comments on As the Wind Blows Add Comment
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By Tyler Logan
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jan 11, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Probably the most striking route in the area. Worth doing for its position, exposure and length. An interesting move or two midway up the crack make it seem more like a 5.8 than a 5.7. It is not necessary to clip the old bolt as there are plenty of other protection opportunities. This route can be well protected with a standard rack.
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 9, 2007

Why is this listed as PG-13? There is plenty of pro on this route.
By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Mar 21, 2011

I agree. I am a fairly new leader and thought this route to be easier than other 5.7's such as Mr. Misty Kiss or Double Cross. It is a good line and there is plenty of pro. I wish I had known about that sling anchor instead of downclimbing the backside.
By Bob Gaines
Jan 22, 2015

The superfluous rusty bolt has beeen removed (due to the fact that there is a bomber pro placement in the crack right next to it)
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