Corner crack, somewhat flared and mealy rock. A bit spicy and listed in the guide as a 5.7. Would not be a route for a fledgling 5.7 leader.
Obvious left-facing corner to the right of the main Ginger's Face.
Standard rack. Old 1/4" bolt/Leeper hanger mid way up route (good candidate for replacement or removal). Top out then down climb horizontal crack to sling anchor on Through the Looking Glass.
|By Tyler Logan|
From: Bishop, CA
Jan 11, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Probably the most striking route in the area. Worth doing for its position, exposure and length. An interesting move or two midway up the crack make it seem more like a 5.8 than a 5.7. It is not necessary to clip the old bolt as there are plenty of other protection opportunities. This route can be well protected with a standard rack.
|By John Hegyes|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 9, 2007
Why is this listed as PG-13? There is plenty of pro on this route.
|By Eric T.|
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Mar 21, 2011
I agree. I am a fairly new leader and thought this route to be easier than other 5.7's such as Mr. Misty Kiss or Double Cross. It is a good line and there is plenty of pro. I wish I had known about that sling anchor instead of downclimbing the backside.